Hello, new readers!

OK, I’m actually sat in Peter Pan Travel in Brisbane to book those bus trips. The wait’s about half an hour so they just said to jump online for a while. Bwahaaha! Wonder if I can hack their machines as easily as the ones in Brisbane central library…

Anyway, I’ve been dishing the web page address around a bit recently so I’d like to say a few “hello”s to some random people. I apologise as I won’t remember many (any) names. Don’t take this personally – I’m just rubbish with names.

So hello to:

  • the Thai girl I talked to on the train from the Gold Coast on Saturday – thank you for your advice on places to visit in Thailand! I’ll be back there in March, I think
  • the Canadian girl I got talking to in Borders – hope you enjoy NZ!
  • Nikkie’s kids – enjoy the photos, and don’t assume the only place to visit when you’re old enough is Bali!
  • the Brisbane Roar supporters on the train the other day – good luck for the rest of the season!
  • anyone else I’ve forgotten – drop me an email (link to the right)!

Update to plans

OK, folks. I have started booking flights and buses. Take a look to the right hand side for dates and a link to my Google calendar (you’ll need Javascript enabled to see all the bumph).

Essentially, I leave Brisbane on the 8th of November to spend a couple of days in Cairns where hopefully I’ll be able to book a couple of night dives as the Great Barrier Reef spawns. Fromn there, a 7-day bus ride/camping expedition across the desert to Alice Springs, and then on to Kings Canyon and Uluru (Ayer’s Rock to all you white people) before returning to Alice. Another 3-day bus ride from there to Darwin where I’ll catch my breath (and hopefully retrieve my passport, which is currently with the Indian consulate) before flying to Singapore on the 23rd.

I have no definite plans from there except to be in India by the 12th of December to meet up with Hans. Expect a lot more pictures and a black spot in communications during the desert trip. I’ll try to keep blog postings up to date on my laptop for a huge update around the 21st when I get to Darwin.

Oh, no. Not here again

Back in Bris, folks! I don’t have a lot of touristy stuff organised for the (indefinite) duration of my stay, so don’t expect too many posts. I’m seeing some friends over the weekend which will likely just involve drinking and falling over which I won’t bother to report on!

However, I just got an email from Hans who will be in India from early December to late February with excursions to Bhutan, Nepal and the like. I need to get travelling again so I’ll likely be booking flights there shortly to hook up with him. I just need to figure out where to book my flights from as I don’t know where I’ll be at the time!

I would like to get back to Singapore shortly as I’d like to get a new camera (a small one for nights out, etc – mine’s too big), a waterproof case so I can take a camera down with me, a new mobile (my spare’s now dying randomly) and some kind of LED nightlight. All of these should be cheaper over there. Plus I’ve heard the diving’s good!

Of course, this means I won’t be hitting Japan next month as I’d intended so I’ll have to reschedule that, maybe for the new year. I’m wondering if I can travel overland from India into SE Asia, do Laos and Cambodia, revisit Vietnam and from there fly into Hong Kong and on to Japan. My credit card is already in hiding.

Bye bye Cairns… for now

Well, my last day in Cairns was fairly uneventful. I woke up stupidly early, probably as my eyes were glued shut and my subconscious didn’t like that very much. I gave them a wash, and the pinkness was definitely reduced compared to the night before. Likely something I’d just picked up in the water. I’ll leave my glasses on for a couple of days to be on the safe side. I need to sort more contact lenses out anyway as I only have two pairs left which will last me until new year.

Lunch was beans on toast, dinner was an enormous roast beef dinner at the Wool Shed and I had some good company. Talia, a nurse from Townsville working in Cairns for three weeks and who’s room I’d been camping outside to get a wireless signal wandered over with me. When I was there I bumped into Paulina, a Swedish girl I met on the way back from the rafting. We were joined by another Swede, two Norwegians, a Mancunian and two Danes.

The staff at Caravella were great and I’ve got Ivan’s email address – if I make it up here again for the reef spawning then I have a dive buddy!

I rattled through a ton of stuff online and then caught the last bus at 22:30 to the airport. Cairns airport has a handy feature – benches you can sleep on. And showers in the toilets, should you need them. Very backpacker-friendly! I’m typing this up sat on my “bed” for the night, the only issue being how I can keep my bed while still running to the loo to brush my teeth as it’ll mean leaving my luggage unattended!

If my laptop gets blown up, you’ll know why…

*insert shimmery “time has passed* visual effect here*

I slept quite well on that bench, actually. I woke to find all of the benches in use and checked onto my flight dot on 4:10. I’m now in the departure lounge and wishing I’d opted for an extra hour’s sleep. I could have checked in at 5:10 and still been in good time for the flight. D’oh.

As usual in Australia, all the internet access in the airport is prohibitively expensive. In NZ you can use your home broadband username/password to access the wireless system in the major airports for free! Singapore doesn’t charge you for plugging into a wall socket (though wireless is chargeable). Very strange. I just wonder if anyone would collar me trying to unplug one of the machines in the cybercafe and replacing it with my laptop?

Yeah, probably.

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Help me! I’m drowning!

Well, OK. Not quite. But the risk was there. For my last day trip, seeing as I can no longer dive until I’ve taken my flight, I decided to chuck myself down a river on an inflatable lump of rubber with several other mentally challenged individuals. Well, as it turned out, four Irish girls and a New Yorker.

I’d picked out Raging Thunder as the company to go with as they seemed to offer a little more in the package than other companies. I also opted for the top-end package: “Xtreme”. Fewer people per boat, fewer boats and an earlier start so you were the first down the river after the power station opened the floodgates, so there fore the best water. I also managed to wangle an extra $10 off by begging the nice Welsh guy on reception when I booked it.

The bus picked me up at 6:30am, the earliest start I think I’ve had in some time. A nice big comfy coach, though, which transferred us to another coach at their offices. We shared with another company called R+R on the trip up to Tully, which is apparently the wettest town in Australia. Or Queensland. Or something. Either way it didn’t rain all day anyway but never mind. We were going to be going down the Tully River with rapids rated at 3-4. During high rainfall season, these can reach 5’s which would be one hell of an experience. The video on the coach was Touching the Void, a true story about some nutter who went mountaineering by himself and then crawled all the way home with a compound fracture in his leg, and who then sold a book about how stupid he’d been to get into that situation in the first place. Hardly cheery viewing first thing in the morning though!

I decided to fork out $4 to rent some sandals for the day as the only footwear I have with me is a pair of trainers and I think it would take more than a day for them to dry out. I also grabbed some breakfast (a beef pie and an orange juice) which I just had time to wolf down as we were separated onto different buses for R+R, Raging Thunder and Xtreme. The third bus was the smallest, just enough for what turned out to be three rafts-worth of landlubbers. The crew were in high spirits, doing their best to gee us up though with cobwebs hanging over most of us, it took some effort. We sorted ourselves into three roughly equal-sized groups and I ended up with four girls from Eire and a guy from New York who now lives near Nottingham.

There was no messing about when we arrived at our starting point. Out of the bus, into our swimming togs, life-vests and helmets and down to the river bank. The boats were winched down and we jumped in with our assigned guide. I can’t remember our guy’s name – actually I don’t think he ever told us in case we had to report bad things about him to the company! – but he was a Kiwi and a hard taskmaster. Put a pegleg and a parrot on him and he’d have been a typical keelhawling, no-messing, “walk the plank” Long John Silver. With filthier jokes. Frankly, I thought he was great. White water rafting is not safe (that’s why insurance premiums are high and we all had to sign our lives away before we got off the bus) and you have to listen to what you’re told and learn quickly how to act on it. He was overbearing to begin with, justifiably so as we were crap, but became more jovial as the day went on and we didn’t kill ourselves.

The safety briefing lasted all of 2 minutes as we were told how to hunch down, how to hold our paddles and how to drift should we fall out. Then we launched. Whoop!

We were right before the first rapids section. Our first test of the day within two minutes of leaving dry land. Let’s just say it’s a good job the water wasn’t too cold.

“Forward paddle! FORWARD!!! STOP! NO! Back paddle! TOGETHER! Lean left! LEFT! LEFT! NOT RIGHT! OH FU….”

*SPLASH*

I can kind of understand him being a little frustrated. However, none of us died so there were no nasty bits of paperwork for him to fill out, so it could have been worse. And it was fresh water, not the salty stuff I’d been swallowing for the last week or so.

We all managed to get into the boat again and hunted down our wayward paddles which had followed the current downstream. We then listened to Captain Bligh tearing strips off us and one of the Irish girls actually started calling him “sir”. This seemed to help.

That was the only time we capsized all day. We did get better, without a doubt. Jeff and I learned to paddle in sync and down the side of the boat. The girls kind of learned how to stay in time with us. And we had a great time.

Just before lunch we stopped at an area where the river was half its usual width and therefore roared along with a good few choppy bits. The boats were parked up and we all disembarked (apart from one of the Irish lasses who was realy not happy – I found out they’d not booked on the Xtreme tour, but their agent had put them on it anyway). We were then told to launch ourselves into the water. We weren’t using boats for this stretch!

Flat on my back with my legs in front of me I floated gently. Then faster. Then down. Then into a wall of water, most of which I’m sure is still lodged in my sinuses. Then there was an “up” bit, some more downs, more walls of water and then… calm. I didn’t see a tunnel of light, so I assumed I wasn’t dead. The shore drifting past on my left confirmed this and I swum over.

Then I walked back and did it again.

And then again.

And then we floated downstream a bit more and had lunch, which believe me I for one really needed. The food was great – a nice burger which you loaded with all the veggies you wanted, fruit, tea and a sausage sandwich for deserts if you asked nicely enough. There were two wild-looking turkeys there, one of which had a club foot so I kept feeding him bits of bread. There was also a shoal of fish and a large eel which hovered nearby so we spent a while throwing food to them as well.

Oh, we also fed the marsh flies. Imagine a cross between a fair-sized moth and a bluebottle. Add the annoying bloodthirsty feeding habits of a mosquito – but not the ability to fly away so quickly – and you have the marsh fly. Annoying bloody things. At one point I had at least four of them supping on my claret through various spots on my legs. The thing is, because of their size you can usually feel them biting you in a way you can’t with mosquitos. This makes it easy to squish the little buggers. Many died that day, and I still think it too few.

The next set of rapids were named The Regurgitator as they were very rough and more than a few rafters had lost their newly-aquire lunch going over them. Thankfully, after a week or so on evil rocking boats on the open sea, I was immune. It was just another cracking ride where we got soaked after drying out in the sun.

After a while, we pulled up again so that some people could jump from a 4m ledge into a deep part of the river. Well, we were meant to stop. Our boat drifted past and I had to jump in and swim for it. It was about this time that my left contact lense dropped out of my eye. I caught it and popped it in my mouth, but sensibly didn’t put it back in my eye, instead realising that would be a pretty poor idea and chucked it away instead. The only problem was that this left me with no depth perception and a 4m drop to contend with.

Well, depth perception’s not necessary for the drop part – but it helps when you’re trying to get your footing. I edged onto the ledge, took a breath, thought “oh hell” and jumped. Weeeeeeeeee*splash*.

Then I climbed round and went again. Only this time I did a proper dive. Well, it would have been a proper one had my life jacket not caught the wind and stopped me bending over enough. I landed on my side with a huge splash but who cares? It was fun!

We had a few more sets of rapids to go down before finally reaching the end of our trek at around 2:30pm. Hot showers and changing facilities were there, as were cold drinks, fruit and chocolate bars. Somehow, despite being rubbish, we’d all survived. Frankly, I was impressed with the girls as it was more than they’d intended to do and only one had come close to quitting at lunchtime but we’d managed to co-erce (erm… carry) her back into the raft.

The journey back to the Raging Thunder Cafe was chatty and I treated myself to an ice lolly when we got there while they tried to sell us photos of our day. I really should have got some, but as you’d expect they were flipping expensive. Eventually, the other coaches came in and after allowing them to time to buy some merchandise we all got on our relevant buses and headed back from whence we’d come.

I got chatting to a couple from Gippsland (near Melbourne) and a girl from Sweden after I’d finished the book I’d started that morning – it’s quite a drive each way. I also developed an eye infection. Gah. Though as I type this up the next day it’s already clearing up.

Overall, a great day. A lot of hard work, but really rewarding. Maybe when it rains I’ll go back and try it when it’s a grade 5!