Well, the train journey wasn’t bad at all. There are several classes over here, ranging from “first” (which you hardly ever see) through 2AC, 3AC, sleeper and downwards. Tonight’s train was a “SL” – sleeper class. This means no A/C, but overnight temperatures were fine.

The carriage was divided by walls to which were attached three tiers of three bunks, the middle of which is initially folded down so three people can sit opposite each other on the bottom one, like a bench. As luck would have it, the other passengers in our little enclave didn’t board for a couple of hours, so we had plenty of space pretty much up until we wanted to bed down.

One thing you’re not short of is food. There’s a near-constant stream of official railway salespeople barging up the carriages screaming “Chicken lollipop!” or “Soda! Lassi!” in a vocal style reminiscent of the old guy who stands outside Eldon Square grunting “Chronicle!”. At a guess, I’d say there were about a dozen different sellers, each with a different food or beverage. These included those mentioned as well as chai, coffee, fruit salad, sandwiches, roast peanuts and foil-wrapped dinners.

I opted for a chicken fried rice for 45Rp which was – frankly – really tasty. I’d have had a fruit salad as well, but the rice was such a generous portion I was full afterwards. Far, far better than the famed British Rail stale sandwiches of old.

For about an hour, I chatted to a middle-aged Indian man who was on his way to Mumbai for a conference. We mainly talked about the food in India, books and authors, and films. Nice guy, though he stopped me finishing my book!

The only real downside to the journey was the noise, as someone kept insisting on opening the door and the route had a lot of tunnels. Having said that, I was exhausted so slept pretty well regardless. This despite sharing my bunk with two rucksacks and a camera bag.

It may be a day or three until the next major update although I have time to kill in Mumbai tomorrow, so may spend most of it online!

We’ve left Palolem (sadly) and started our trek northwards. A big wave and a “really hope to see you again soon” to everyone we met at the beach. I simply can’t remember all your names, but of the top of my head: Sharna, Harriet, Alex, Emma, Charlie, Noa, Katrina, Caroline, Leigh… I know there are more! We had a great time and with any luck will catch up with a handful of these folks in Nepal.

The bus ride up here was bumpy to say the least, but I slept for most of it courtesy of very little kip the night before. Too many beers and great company – thanks, Noa! We popped into a service cafe – I think used by the bus drivers – when we arrived in Margao and paid a whopping 7/- each for two bottles of Mountain Dew before hopping into an autorickshaw to the train station.

Right now I’m at said station waiting for our train to Mumbai. It’s an overnight sleeper and I look forward (ish) to seeing what the facilities are like! We arrive in Mumbai/Bombay at around 6:00 or 7:00 tomorrow morning when nothing will be open. We’re really only there to pick up our flight tickets to Calcutta and Bangladesh, but we’ll have the day to kill so I may update there. As it is, I best dash as Hans is sat on the platform with only our bags for company and I think he wants to check his email as well.

Oh, and it looks like I might be visiting the Middle East sometime this year as well. Maybe on the way back to Europe. Anyone know a good Hebrew phrasebook?