Cambodia – lucky country 13

Well, the flight was OK (even landing an hour early) and the company was good. The airport was a lot nicer than I was expecting with incredibly friendly staff (OK, except the immigration staff who were as stony as ever) and $1.50 beer in the bar. I got talking to Amy from Wisconsin and Jason from Philadelphia. We shared a taxi town as my airport pickup didn’t show, neither did Amy’s and Jason hadn’t arranged anything.

The driver dropped Jason and I off first and then whisked Amy away. We exchanged numbers so I could ring her to arrange dinner, drinks and the like for later.

My room hits the main points I require for the night – lock on the door, bed in the corner, no UXB’s in sight. Other than that, it’s a little ramshackle but for $2 a night I’m not going to complain. Jason forked out $12 a night for a much nicer room with aircon and we later found out that for $10, Amy had TV, a fridge and free breakfast. Ah well. Pays to shop around!

As I showered, the heavens opened. It’s rainy season here in Cambodia, though at least it rains heavily in phases rather than constantly for days at a time… for the moment.

I called Amy, finally got hold of the hotel and waited for them to find her. I tried again and was told she was not available. As I did this, the chap at the counter recognised the name of the hostel I was calling. “Is my cousin’s hostel – is over the road. You can see it.” We’d thought it was the other side of town! So I gave up on the phone and walked over.

Amy and Jason sat around while I stitched my rucksack again and then we wandered into the center of Siem Reap. It’s quite a small city but busy and full of shops, bars and people wanting to get you into their tuk-tuk. Typically SE Asia, basically. It’s also one of the cheapest places I’ve been. Food varies in price and quality, but you can get a decent local meal on the street for maybe $1.50 or have the same in a nice restaurant for $4.

We settled on the Khmer Kitchen and picked our dishes. I went for a chicken, chili basil option with delicious spring rolls. A bottle of wine was shared and good conversation flowed. During the meal a woman pulled up outside with a cart full of books. Jason haggled for a while and ended up with a copy of The Life Of Pi for $5. He wanted to pay $3, but the woman wouldn’t budge and the child she had “working” for her was so adorably cute that he was prepared to give the extra for the “aaaaah” factor.

From there we walked to the Red Piano which has a gazillion Angelina Jolie posters up because she had a meal there when making the first Tomb Raider film. On to the rooftop Bar X for another beer where Jason left us for the evening, slightly more tired than Amy and myself.

The remains of out tiny group wandered round the rather small night market before checking out the Dead Fish (complete with gators you can feed for 50c) and hitting the internet, dodging raindrops and finally returning to our respective palaces / hovels.

I’m getting a good vibe from Siem Reap. It’s almost a shame I only have two full days here but at least that should force me to appreciate it!

Leaving Laos

Wobbling out of bed at 7:30, I rushed around packing the last few things and grabbing breakfast. I fell into he same mealtime-related trap as I had prior to the waterfall visit and had far too little time to eat (and check my email *ahem*) than I needed. The one thing that’s irking me right now is a lack of response from the insurance company regarding my camera. Their auto-email told me to expect a reply in 24 hours and it’s been three days. I dropped them another message.

The nice guy who runs the hostel asked when I would be back and I had to honestly tell him I didn’t know. He smiled, laughed, shook my hand and said “one year!”

Outside, it was the stereotypical Asian situation of actually needing a tuk-tuk for once and there not being any within eyesight. Usually you spend all day either ignoring them or saying “no thank you”. I finally located one, agreed a fare of three dollars and jumped in.

The airport is maybe 15-20 minutes away and I hopped out at the other end along with several other tourists on other tuk-tuks, some of whom I recognised. A shame we didn’t communicate more as we could have shared one and saved some cash! I had a little fun with my driver as he wanted paid in Kip and I had exactly none, only dollars.

“You say 30,000 Kip”

“No – you say 30,000 Kip. I say ‘3 dollar’ and you say ‘good'”

“Three dollar not enough. Only 9000 Kip for one dollar. Give me one more.”

This went on for a while until I told him I had 10 dollars for departure tax and 20 dollars to get into Cambodia. He could take the three dollars I had or I could take them back. He settled for the three dollars. In honesty, I think the guy was just in so much of a rush to get me into his tuk-tuk in town that he missed the part of the conversation where we agreed on three bucks instead of Kip.

I’m typing this up in the lounge at Luang Prabang airport. I’ve passed through the most lax luggage x-ray ever, been checked in by the most laid-back airport staff and then stamped out of the country by some not-as-unpleasant-as-usual immigration officers.

Next stop, Siem Reap in Cambodia (via Pakse as my flight’s not direct, grr).