A huge thank you to Antony who emailed me to tell me he’d found the American Ice Cream Parlor and Hamburger Restaurant we’d eaten at on the way from Siem Reap to Phnomn Penh (detailed on this post). It’s in a town called Kompong Thom, around the corner from the Arunras Hotel in the town center.
Monthly Archives: August 2008
Plans on hold for a bit
…or subject to a little change. Due to the current political climate in Thailand (i.e. they have another ****hole in charge and they’re trying to kick him out like they did with that moron Thaksin), two airports are closed and the rail network is shut down. It’s very possible that other airports will also follow suit. As far as I’m aware, entering the country is fine just the usual warnings to stay away from large gatherings. I saw one quote on the BBC News where a woman says the protesters at Krabi airport even apologised profusely for the inconvenience they were causing her!
Allowing for the rail network starting up again, my plot is roughly to head for Kota Bharu (maybe through the Cameron Highlands) with perhaps a short sojourn to the Perhentian Islands. This would, of course, involve diving. What a shame. From there over the Thai border and up to Hat Yai and then using the rail network (hopefully) along the eastern side of the country. This also may result in a stopoff or so on the islands of Ko Samui and/or Ko Phangan. Thence to Bangkok.
From there to Ho Chi Minh and perhaps Dalat, then somehow from there to Ninh Binh to see the Primate Centre and up to Hanoi (once more). Ideally I want to arrive in Ninh Binh around the 20th of September. Other than that, everything’s flexible.
In the meantime, I should get some sleep. I have now been awake for 24 hours and 12 minutes. And bizarrely don’t feel that tired. Tonight I’m meeting some “online friends” for a beer. Or two. Or three. Well, it is Malaysia’s birthday, after all!
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And back to KL
A day full of travel and few events, but one thing to note: I filled in my dive log book earlier and I’ve passed the “24 hours of my life underwater with a tank strapped to my back” mark. Cool.
I had a bit of a lie in and appopriated a Lonely Planet SE Asia on a Shoestring that someone left behind. Handy as I’m heading back into Thailand shortly, and into areas I’ve not been before. In the Sipadan Scuba office I updated the blog (painfully due to the poor internet) and walked up to the bus area with Elsa, my Rescue Diver victim. She’s looking a lot better now – breathing and everything.
For those travelling to Tawau Airport from Semporna, the cheapest way to do it on your own is to get one of the minibuses from outside KFC. It’s MR20 flat fare, as opposed to the MR80 that Scuba Junkie will charge you for a share taxi – essentially a minimum of MR20 if you can get three other people. The buses leave when they’re full which seems to be every thirty minutes or so.
As it happens, I was hungry having skipped breakfast so I had a KFC. As I sat there, the bus driver poked his head in the door and signalled that he was about to leave. I chugged my Pepsi and ran out in time to squeeze into my seat and read for the next hour as we zoomed along the windy roads.
Check-in for the flight was the usual fun with anyone trying to take on more than 15.5kg being asked to empty things out of their luggage or cough up. And the usual handful of people with four boxes of 25kg each that argued, holding the line up. My rucksack? 15.0kg precisely, thank you very much.
I gave myself an ice-cream headache with a blueberry ice drink and munched a packet of cheese crisps and a small roll of Oreos. Healthy dinner. Not. I then encountered a novel version of “queueing” that the Malaysians have developed that I guarantee you would not work in the UK. As they came through security, they placed their bags in the queueing area near the departure gate then wandered off to the seating area elsewhere. That’d go down well with the overzealous security at Heathrow… I don’t know if they have enough controlled explosives to take out an entire “queue” of Malaysian backpacks.
The best part was that the queue was divided in three. I got onto the plane far ahead of most of the people who’d cheated by the simple expedient of walking to the front of one of the other lines when they opened them. Not that it helped much as the flight was delayed by roughly half an hour.
At Kuala Lumpur, Air Asia land at the budget terminal which gives you some options for getting into the city itself. The airline runs its own express bus which takes around an hour (likely longer during daylight hours) for MR9, or MR6.50 if you book it online at the time you sort your flight. There was another bus in front of us that I think was charging MR11 for the same journey.
As an alternative, you could catch the free bus to the main terminal and then hop on one of the rail services (regular or express). All these buses and trains go to KL Sentral Station from where you can jump on the LRT or MRT to other parts of the city.
Bonus time – I paid for my MR9 ticket with a MR10 note… and got MR41 in change. I’ll get scammed somewhere else, so it’ll work out I’m sure.
When the bus pulled in to the Sentral Station, we were surrounded by taxi touts all trying to convince passengers that the MRT and LRT had both closed for the night. The thing is, they did this will stood underneath signs saying a) that you should not use these taxis and should go upstairs for the voucher ones and b) that the last train is at 11:56. And it was 11:40. So they were lying.
The station the bus stops at is the one for mainline rail services and the LRT. For the MRT monorail into the Golden Triangle area, you need to turn your back to the station and walk through the park in front of you directly across the main road. The last train from there is midnight. Never trust taxi drivers.
I bumped into a couple who were on holiday from their teaching jobs in Saigon, and they’d not been to KL before. They were heading in my direction so I helped them get their bearings. As we pulled into Bukit Bintang station, the train horns started blaring and we could hear explosions… fireworks. August 31st is Merdeka – Malaysian Independence Day, and this year is their 51st anniversary as an independent nation. Sadly, under the cover of the MRT station we couldn’t see the fireworks, but we could see the thronging crowd below staring at them and covering each other in silly string. A shame I’d not arrived earlier in the day!
I directed my cohorts to the backpacker area and strolled around the corner to the Trekker Lodge where I had a 2-night booking. Seems like an OK place with friendly reception and wi-fi. I had to fix the internet connection as well as the network settings on two of the PCs in the office. I’m nice like that. Then I sat down to watch us getting hammered by Arsenal. As I type, we have 5 minutes left and we’re 3-0 down. Hey ho.
Sipadan
Up early again to get to the dive shop for the Sipadan trip. I thought I’d be diving with John and Mel, but it turned out they were doing Sipadan the next day and were off to Mantabuan instead. Sipidan is strictly regulated when it comes to diver numbers – no more than 120 per day. This is to ensure it’s not spoiled and is a good idea, though it can make diving there a pain if you don’t pre-book well enough in advance. At one time, you could holiday on the island but now the small resort plays host to the soldiers who protect it. Very little of the island can be walked on – one small beach, the jetty and the toilets.
Still, nobody goes to Sipadan to trek in the jungle. The 45-minute boat ride takes you to what is reckoned as being one of the world’s best dive sites. And having done three dives there, I can see why. The sheer volume and variety of creatures there is breathtaking, though be prepared for a few currents. At times it’s fun to just make yourself buoyant, curl up and let the waters push you past the coral. It’s like watching a film float past your eyes.
Barracuda spiral in a tornado. Turtles can be found in almost every rock crevice and eye you wisely before gliding gracefully past. Shark appear as a shadow above or below you – annoyingly very rarely at the same depth as if they just want some privacy. The number of fish species is too numerous to count and they’re all very blase about swimming around you. They see enough divers that you’re not going to upset them.
One word of warning, though – and this holds for every dive site – don’t touch the wildlife. Any of it. Coral, turtles, fish, nudibranches. Unless you’re trained, know what you’re doing and know for certain you won’t harm anything, keep your damn hands off. If I see anyone tugging on a turtle‘s flippers (and I’ve heard of this happening too many times) I’ll happily pull their dive mask off with no warning. Think yourself lucky I don’t rip out a regulator or turn off their air.
I know I’ve not written much about Sipadan, but you really have to go there to experience it. Even with poor visibility on the second dive due partly to rain, it was a hell of an experience.
Back at Semporna, I met up with Michael (my dive buddy from Switzerland) and Jenny (a Swedish student) for dinner while I also said goodbye to Mel and John. I really hope I get a chance to catch up with them again somewhere, though they’re working homeward now.
After walking Jenny back to her place (Semporna gets dark afetr sunset – not too many street lights) I popped into Scuba Junkie for a beer as I’d been told it was rocking on a Friday night. Well, not this Friday as they’d postponed things to the next evening for some reason. I had a couple of bevvies with some people I got talking to then walked back to the Dragon Inn around 11-ish. In truth, I was knackered. A good day and sadly my last here, but diving’s not the cheapest hobby and if I didn’t leave I’d spend far too much money!
Qualified Rescue Diver
This was the final day of my EFR and Rescue Diver course, and the second involving hands-on training and exercises. My instructor today was Ice, a local guy who speaks English, Malay and Cantonese. Along with us was Elsa, a girl from Hong Kong who was to play my victim/patient for all the hard work. I’m very glad they picked someone small and slim, making the exercises a lot easier than they would have been with Ross! No offence, Ross – Elsa’s also a lot prettier! 🙂
The venue was Sangamata, a small “floating” hotel resort only a short boat ride from the mainland. It’s also a fish farm with many cool species kept in netting before either being used for food or released into the wild. There’s a natural reef around it as it’s essentially a small island. Like many “floating” places, Sangamata’s actually on stilts embedded into the bedrock beneath.
We covered a lot of work from locating a lost buddy to bringing her to the surface safely. Once there, checking for breathing and performing rescue breaths while towing to the nearest shore/boat while continuing breathing and removing equipment if necessary. A few techniques for removing a victim from the water were shown to me as well. Trying these things out for real is a lot more work than watching the training DVD and reading the manuals!
The dives were also fun around all the exercises, but I had some problems with my camera housing fogging up. I think I got it sorted by the last dive – important as I had three dives at Sipidan booked for the next day and I really wanted to get some good snaps there.
On the boat on the way back, Ice said simply “Congratulations – you’re the newest Rescue Diver in Malaysia!” and shook my hand. Cool – another qualification and step towards Dive Master should I decide to go that route (which is tempting).
Back at the dive shop I bumped into John and Mel again. They’d not expected to stay here so long and I thought they’d have left as well, but they opted to enjoy some more diving and ended up with Sipidan Scuba as Scuba Junkies were fully booked. We had a few beers and pizza in Scuba Junkies to celebrate and had a great conversation with another English couple, a Canadian guy and another English lass (Helen).
Beers safely stowed in my belly, I walked a Danish girl back to her flat (I’m nice like that) and then trudged back to my own place for a decent kip. I was really looking forward to Sipadan – I’ve heard so much about it!

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