Dogs. Horses. Monkeys. Chickens. Bats.

A fairly busy day, today. I started off with a bit of a chill-out, eating semi-melted chocolate and drinking water. I’m actually getting into the habit of drinking enough non-beer fluids which will suprise many people back home. Then off I went for a quick bike ride around the nearby lake, armed with my camera.

On the way back I booked a taxi for 1:00 to take me to Khao Tao, then plonked my bottom in front of my laptop and watched Bad Santa from a dodgy DVD. Hilarious and utterly not family-friendly viewing!

Before heading to get the taxi, I took the “dog-which-would-not-be-comfy-with-me” for a walk on the beach. Eddie was well-behaved as ever due to my Dr Dolittle abilities and the fact that she’s soft as muck.

The taxi, however, tried to be too helpful. Because the people at the resort I got it from knew I was staying with people who worked at Chiva Som, they decided that this was where I really wanted to go and I’d obviously made a mistake. Hence, I found myself dropped off about 2 miles from where I wanted to be… and without the right money. Typically Thai, the chap who drove me ran off down the street and finally found a shop where he bought something really cheap so he could get enough change. Needless to say, I tipped well! After all, he was only doing what he thought was best and I can hardly complain about being “forced” to walk down a beautiful beach like the one south of Hua Hin.

The fun bit was getting to the beach as I was on of the main roads running parallel to it. I’d bee told to just “go through” the Hyatt. So I did. I spotted the sign, turned left and walked up a huge, posh driveway. I was “wai”‘ed at the entrance by a man in a very smart suit, welcomed by the reception staff, greeted by the porters and nodded to by the pool attendants. While all the time just using their stupidly expensive 6-star hotel as a pathway to the beach. I could have gone into the toilets, changed in to a swimming cossie, and stretched out by the pool. I could probably even have billed stuff to a room I wasn’t staying in, but I’m too nice.

Once on the beach, I stopped to take some pictures of some very interesting crabs. They’re tiny – millimetres across- and hide in little holes you can see all along the surface as soon as they see/feel something approaching. They feed by searching through the sand for vegetative matter, rolling the sand into balls as they go, and creating huge “fields” of balled-up sand. I got a few photos of one of the critters and a little video of him making sand-balls.

The target at the end of my walk was Khao Takiap (literally Chopstick Mountain), commonly known to tourists as Monkey Mountain for reasons which are about as obvious as you probably think from the name. After walking past a huge golden Buddha, up some very steep steps, over a rise next to the cat shelter, down and left past a seafood restaurant you encounter the first shop selling bags of bananas “for the monkeys”. Only 50Baht, so I took some and put them in my backpack for safe keeping.

A couple of hundred more yards gets you to a courtyard area with a temple, some shops and a hundred or so monkeys. I think they’re Japanese Macaques, but there’s little information anywhere about them. Again, there is a shop selling bags and baskets of various sizes which you can feed to the little critters. If you’ve ever wanted to feel popular, this is one way to do it. As soon as you have food, you’ll find yourself surrounded. And literally jumped on. Sadly, I didn’t get any photos of the monkeys on my back as I was there by myself. Maybe next time!

It’s hard not to feel sorry for the smaller ones, but feeding them is tricky as the larger monkeys are quite bullish and will shove them out of the way. They can also be rather sneaky, hiding one bit of food in a foot, pretending they don’t have any so you hand them another banana. There was even a handful of recent mothers, strolling along with their new-borns clinging to them.

I absolutely lost track of time. These creatures are so fascinating and so absorbing to watch. The tricks they pull to get food, playing with each other, picking up rocks and toying with them, teasing the local dogs… it’s like a school playground with no rules.

Eventually, though, I had to make my way back up the beach to Chiva Som. Everywhere else on the beach is pretty much wide open. Not Chiva Som. There’s a big, locked gate and a security guard (in full uniform despite the 40 degree heat) stood there to stop the likes of me getting in. Shortly after work finished, Lou and Sharon came out and we hired three horses for a trot down the beach to Khao Takiap and back. We ended up with two horses as Sharon’s huge stallion seemed to decide it was going to walk her and not the other way around.

Now, I’ve never ridden a horse before. At least, if I have it was so long ago I’ve forgotten. My bottom won’t forget that day in a hurry. Ambling along is fine, but giving them a quick tap so they start galloping results in compound bruising to the posterior. Still, I’d do it again. Lovely creatures.

The evening ended with me breaking a 14-month KFC drought and pigging out on a burger, three crispy strips and strawberry cheesecake desert. Yes, all the way to Thailand and I eat a KFC. IN fairness, I boycotted them until they stopped last year’s awful advertising campaign and they have.

The food over here’s different, though. First off, they don’t do tower burgers (boo). I also think the chicken was a little tougher than I remember, but it has been over a year. I do, though, like their “supersize” rules. You can have a larger drink for 5Baht, or larger fries for 5Baht, or both for 10Baht. I always found in the UK that to get a large fries I also had to get too much Pepsi which I then insisted on drinking. The drinks come in plastic cups instead of waxed paper, and the drinks carriers are a simple but ingenious plastic bag with bits sealed so you can put several cups in them and carry them easily. Smart stuff.

Batman Begins was watched with dinner. And wine. Much sleep occurred soon thereafter.

Cow Pat Guy and Muay Thai

Today I was pretty much left to my own devices as mein hosts were at work. In fairness, I got up at the same time as them (first time I’d seen 7am for a week) and then started writing up the last few days for this blog.

I walked the dog (who Sharon said would never go for a walk with me until I’d gone with someone else so that Eddie got to know me), tidied up, sorted a ton of backlogged email and caught up on the news. A cyclone? In Oz? Eek.

Later in the afternoon, armed with my trusty Lonely Planet language reference book, I wandered to a local “restaurant” and ordered “khâo phàt kài khráp” (cow pat guy kraa) – chicken fried rice please. The end result was a fantastic plate of food, plus a watery but tasty vegetable soup and iced water. For about 24p.

Seriously, I could live off this. I do need to go back again as I only paid the exact money due to not having enough change to give a tip. And because the food was so good. I’m actually getting peckish writing this!

Once the working people had got home, Lou and I headed off to see the Muay Thai. We got there just in time to nab two seats in the second row (despite my best efforts to misread the blatantly obvious 9pm start time as 9:30pm) and settled in with a free beer. Just the one, as I “lost” the voucher for the other one – it later turned up in my wallet.

What a spectacle it was. I don’t “do” boxing – it’s rather thuggish and basically the biggest, most violent brute wins. It’s all posing, and psyching and ego. Muay Thai is more about skill and respecting your opponent and the sport. This is obvious from the friendly bows, taps of gloves and smiles at the end of every round, not just the fight.

The main surprise was the order of the bouts. Five fights each of five rounds (maximum – a knockout or a retirement would finish a bout early). They started with some fairly young fighters, I’d guess around 14-15. This fight finished with a knockout in the second.

Next bout, the fighters were older and more experienced. Same again with the next and the next.

And then the final round. I’d hazard a guess that the fighters were maybe 8 or 9 years old. But take away their size and concentrate in their ability, strength and determination and you were very much looking at two young fighters – not two kids belting each other. You can’t go crying about children being involved when they’re simply so good at something. They deserve all the respect their hard work earned them and both lasted the full five rounds, with a narrow victory to the one in the blue shorts.

Definitely an intriguing sport full of ritual and something to read more about.

Drive to Khao Tao

Another late night meant another lie in and the first time we missed breakfast at the hotel. Which was daft really, as after the last few days we really could have done with food! Sleep won, though, and we got all packed up and shifted to Joy’s house in Bangkok to await Sharon.

When she arrived, we packed all our kit into Nacho’s classic VW Camper Van (Riff and Colin would drool with jealous rage, until they found out it has no working aircon) and headed for the open road. Only the roads were blocked with traffic, so we didn’t go anywhere particularly quickly.

Eventually exiting Bangkok (and waking up once or twice) the roads were noticeably different. Slightly less well tended but with the same massive difference in housing alongside it. I also found out that what we call the “hard shoulder”, Thai’s call a “moped lane” and don’t really worry about what side of the central reservation it is – they go both ways up it regardless, as if it’s a road in its own right.

After 3 1/2 hours we made it to Hua Hin, drove straight through and 12kms later arrived in Khao Tao with one hot dog (Eddie) and a bag of very soft Celebrations. Bad choice of travel food with no aircon. Ah well.

We settled into the beach house (literally – open the back gate and at high tide you have maybe 5 yards of sand then the Pacific Ocean) and headed into Hua Hin for dinner.

I saw my first ladyboys, who really are as wholely unconvincing as they appear on the TV, and had a flyer foisted on me for the next night’s Muay Thai.

A quick wander to the shops to sort out some flip flops for me resulted instead in a purchase of milks and suntan lotion (close…) and a night was called to proceedings. Travel wipes you out, especially in 35 degree heat. No worries, by Sunday it’ll be a gentle 30.

I can’t complain as I’m still using private transport for the long journeys. This isn’t to last!

Goodbye to friends

Today was Tim & Tracy’s last day in Thailand, with them heading out on a near-midnight flight. We spent the day dawdling around Bangkok (after recoving from the night before which took some doing, I can tell you) and I even managed to find an A & W selling root beer. Lovely!

We sat and enjoyed the sun (and bandaged Sharon’s blistered foot) in Lumpini Park. This is a huge park in the centre of the city where people gather in the early hours to exercise, do Tai Chi and basically chill out before work. It’s about the only public “no smoking” area in Bangkok (tell that to the farang sat on a bench near us – the Thais were too polite to) and dogs aren’t allowed in at all.

Dinner, once again, was at the Bull’s Head (I heartily recommend… erm… everything on the menu). On a Sunday they do a 2-hour promotion called Toss the Boss where the bar manager tosses a coin for each round you buy. If you win, you have to buy him a drink (usually a token 100Baht) but the round is free. If you lose… you pay for your drinks as normal. We paid for one round out of 6, and that one was only a single G&T and half a lager.

Tears were shed later as we were pummelled 1-3 by Liverpool. Oh, and when T&T left to fly home. Both events pretty much expected, though.

Happy birthday to Lou!

Today was Lou’s birthday so we had a little party for her and deluged her with many gifts and cards that were rude about her age. Even the hotel joined in, turning up at the room door with a cake and a card. Admittedly the card was meant for a guy 5 floors below, apologising for a cockup with his limo hire (he had Lou’s card, much to his consternation) but we sorted that.

Lunch was at Muy Thai, Joy’s (you know who she is by now) new “healthy eating” noodle bar. Sadly, the front is obscured by people queueing for “Rotti Boy”, the latest fast food craze in Thailand. So we walked past making comments about how rottis are made from rotted baby parts. I don’t think the queue understood, but we tried.

Brief shopping was done (genuine CD in department store roughly £5.63, knock-off on street corner £1.40) before heading hotelwards to get dolled up for Lou’s birthday night out.

One of her friends had organised dinner at the Sofitel’s V9 restaurant – 39 floors up and offering a stunning view of the city. Mind, you pay for that view with the menu prices. The food was outstanding (I’ve never eaten nicer duck), but really expensive. Lou got another birthday cake which I devoured most of. Sorry for that, but it was nice.

The taxi ride back (at 2:30am – they kicked us out) was a lot shorter than the one there, mainly as we got a driver who knew where he was going. A word of advice – always know where you’re going when you get in a cab in Bangkok, that is where your destination actually is as these guys don’t sit “The Knowledge” to get a license!