Lazy(ish) day

 I was up fairly early this morning, around 7:30, as Esther has an early start for work – she’s the Dutch girl I probably mentioned earlier who I’m sharing my dorm with. I’m an early riser anyway, so this suits me.

I’d decided that I wanted to go to the museum today. It’s nearby, kind of, and free. The last time I was in Darwin, I actually walked past it when I went for a stroll along the beach but I didn’t go in. It is quite a walk from the city centre, so I opted for a bus this time.

As far as museums go, it’s quite a small one. Having said that, what they do have is rather nice and they do seem to change the exhibits and displays round fairly often. When I visited they had a display of Aboriginal art, predominantly from the local nation, a collection of stuffed native animals, another sizeable display detailing the evolution of many of the creatures, a boat yard, cyclone exhibit, huge display of Aboriginal basketwork and a crocodile called Sweetheart.

Sweetheart is a permanent exhibit and his (yes – “his”) story is a sad one. During the 1970s, he became well known in the area for attacking boats and even capsized a couple although nobody was ever hurt. There are verious theories as to why he did this (the noise of the engines mimicking a territorial croc grunt is one) but otherwise it’s simply not normal behaviour. Eventually, by 1979, he was considered too dangerous so a trap was set. Full marks to the Aussies who were going to shift him to another location rather than just shoot him.

Sadly, things didn’t go exactly to plan. After being caught and drugged, Sweetheart got tangled on a log and the anaesthetic administered also didn’t seem to work correctly and the big croc died before they could get him out of the river. So, they stuffed him and put him in a museum as a fine example of his kind. He’s 780kg and 5.1m long – and still isn’t as large as salties get.

 The cyclone exhibit is also eye-opening, giving details of a huge storm – Cyclone Tracy – that hit Darwin around December 24th/25th 1974 and which pretty much demolished the entire city. The before and after aerial photographs are particularly shocking, though the “worst” part is a pitch dark room where a recording of sounds of the cyclone battering the city is played at full volume. A sign on the door warns that it could be upsetting to people who remember Cyclone Tracy. Well, it scared the willies out of me.

If you go, allow about 2-3 hours depening on whether you’re a browser or a looker. It’s on bus route 4 from the city centre and costs $1.40 each way. You can walk it as well, though I’d guess it’s 40-60 minutes’ walk in baking heat from the CBD.

In the afternoon, I did my old Brisbane trick and headed for the library to read comics. And Lonely Planet Guides. And play on the X-Box. Yes, the library has an X-Box you can book for 30 minutes sessions for free. Their collection of Lonely Planets is also superb and they’re in the reference section so can’t be checked out. Ideal for travellers like me!

I did pop online again later on as many of you are likely aware, and my email is down to a more manageable level. After that, a quick dip in the pool and off out for dinner with Sharna, the birthday girl from the Vic.

Getting in the mood for the next 2 1/2 months, we went to a place called Nirvana which sells Thai, Malay and Indian food. Good stuff, too, and very reasonably priced. The only complaint I had was the usual restaurant issue of never seeming to want to sort the bill for you, so we were late leaving for the cinema and missed the first couple of minutes of Borat. I laughed a lot at this film, but feel really rather guilty about it. Amazingly, it actually gives Jackass a run for its money in the insensitivity and disgusting stakes – I can understand why the Khazakhstani government wanted it banned!

After that, a quick drink with Sharna’s mates and then we each headed home. Me with an 8am rise, Sharna with a 5:30am one. Ouch. Posted by Picasa

Things I noticed in Oz

Well, I’ve been here for some time and I’ve seen and experienced a lot. Let me tell you about some of the quirkier things and some of the things that simply “jar” compared to the UK. All in no particular order as I’ve been adding to this as time have gone on!

  • The high cost of confectionery. The average price of a Mars Bar is $2, around 85p – easily twice the cost of the same bar back home. On top of that, the chocolate is rubbish – especially bars which are predominantly chocolate like Cadbury’s blocks
  • Sweets are generically called “lollies” whether or not they come on a stick
  • Low-fat Mars Bars are available at the same inflated cost as a normal bar, only they proclaim “50% less fat then a regular bar”. This will, of course, be partly due to that fact that they’re 44.5g in weight instead of 60g like the standard “full fat” bars. Sneaky. They weigh 1/4 less, which accounts for half of the “50% less fat” in one swoop
  • Nobody called me “Cobber” during my entire stay. Nobody. I am disappointed
  • Likewise, I didn’t see a single person wearing a hat with corks hanging from it
  • I did, however, see Crocodiles and some Aborigines, though not Paul Hogan. Not even on television
  • Aussies love their abbreviations. Service station = servo, afternoon = arvo, vehicle registration = rego, documentary = doco, politician = pollie…
  • Anything less than 600km away is “just down the road”
  • Meat is cheaper than just about any other major foodgroup
  • Quantas are monopolising b*stards when it comes to certain flight routes, but at least they give you snacks and drinks unlike Virgin Blue and JetStar
  • They’re fiercely proud about using home-grown/made/manufactured produce in a way that would have morons in the UK throwing hissy fits and claiming racism. However, this also means that their fruit is currently hugely expensive due to poor crops this year (floods, drought, etc). Bananas are stupidly pricey, yet they won’t/can’t import them from elsewhere. Bizarrely, bananas are a pretty normal price in NZ – I don’t know where they import theirs from
  • As with the Kiwis, Aussies are very friendly, open and chatty. When they ask “how are you?” they usually appreciate getting more than a “fine”. Or maybe that’s just because of my sexy English accent
  • Books are expensive. A paperback with a UK price of £6.99 on the back can cost the equivalent of £8 or higher. Second hand bookshops run at an average of $10 (£4.30) per book, as far as I can find. Back home I’m used to £2 or less
  • Nobody in Australia seems to want to study for A+ certification. At least I’ve looked in three cities and umpteen bookshops and not found a single textbook for it
  • Aussie TV is either homegrown and awful or the same American stuff we get on CH5 and Sky. Either way it’s infested with more adverts than I can believe. 4 advert breaks in a 30-minute program. Good grief
  • Nothing is “used” or “second hand”. It’s “pre-loved”, even if its been beaten to hell. I guess that “pre-tough-loved”.
  • Aussies treat their home state/territory the way we divide the UK into four countries. They’re always quick to tell you that they’re actually originally from Victoria, or NSW or wherever
  • Australian Idol is far huger than the equivalent Pop Idol back home. And it actually features talented individuals rather than egotistical industry-built morons like the jerks our original version is lumbered with

Bye bye, Australia. It’s been a wonderful couple of months. I will return, I promise!

Relief

The post arrived today… and it included both my passport and my PADI card. Whew. More relief than the biggest poop ever after the biggest curry ever. But less smelly.

Thing is, I’ve reached the point where I’ve almost talked myself into staying in Darwin for another week to chill out as I’ve met a few nice people to hang with. It means dumping a £60 flight and accomodation is around £8 a night as opposed to the £3 or so it’d cost in Singapore. I now need to decide if this is worth it or not.

I have enough to do in Singapore to keep me busy for maybe five days, then I was going to travel up towards Kuala Lumpur then on to Borneo, but I believe it’s rainy season there. This means I’d have time to kill and not a lot to do, as it would be better to wait till Feb/Mar and return that way to see the country when the weather’s improved. So should I spend another week here relaxing instead.

Decision made. I found out that I could change my Tiger flight for around AUS$70, which isn’t a lot. So I’m spending the weekend here and flying out at silly o’clock on Monday instead!

Passport nightmares and missing PADI

As I’m writing this a huge weight has been lifted from my mind, but I’m still on tenterhooks. I finally got through to someone at the Indian Embassy today (after three phone calls and around 30 minutes on hold) who told me that my visa application has been approved and that my passport was put into the post yesterday. Thing is the express delivery guarantee doesn’t include the Northern Territories, where it’s a “minimum” 2 working day delivery window, so tomorrow is the earliest it could arrive.

Bugger.

No mail had arrived today, despite the “express” envelope used. I even went to the Post Office on the off chance that it had been delivered there, and not quite made it to the Cav yet. I check out tomorrow morning with a 3am flight on Thursday. If the passport’s not in the mail then… that flight is non-refundable.

Definitely into “have to see” territory. If it doesn’t turn up, then I may just head to Sydney for a week to see Michaela (makes a change to heading to Brisbane again!) or loaf up here and get Sharna to show me around Darwin! At least I know the visa has been granted. I just need to ensure I’m in Kuala Lumpur before the 12th of December.

Also in the mail is my Advanced PADI card, which I believe my folks posted early last week by airmail. That should take four days. Don’t you just love postal services? A girl in my room here sent a didgeridoo home to Holland four months ago and it’s still not got there.

Well, I’ve spent around four hours typing up the last week’s-worth of posts. Now I just need to find somewhere I can connect and upload the lot! And go through the huge pile of email I’m sure I’ll have. If you’ve emailed me, please be patient. I got to Alice Springs after 3 days offline and had 87 emails waiting, so 7 days on from then I daren’t even guess how big my mailbox is. I may wait till tomorrow morning for email scouring, as I can get free wireless for as long as I want in Singapore. Passport = flight = as long as I need to do my mail while sat in McD’s.

Just for a change… north!

 A late start today, only having to be up at 6:30. However, the tents were all transparent fly-netting so the sun woke us all at 5:30 instead. We’re definitely in the tropics now – the weather is very hot and humid. I’m remembering what Asia was like now! It’s surprising how quickly the change takes place as you travel up the Stuart Highway.

Today’s big destination was the Katherine Gorge within the Nitmiluk National Park, a huge system of canyons and crevices forged by the Katherine River over millions of years. Freshwater crocodiles inhabit the area and many of the sandy beaches within the Gorge are labelled as crocodile breeding grounds. I partnered with Janni, one of the Danish girls, to canoe for a couple of hours – an optional extra not part of the tour, but quite reasonable at $23. This is the all-day hire price, but we only had two hours. We made it to near the top of the first gorge (Katherine Gorge is one huge single gorge, but seems divided into 13 different ones during drier weather) where we got out along with most of the rest of the canoists and had a swim for half an hour or so. The water was lovely and the scenery idyllic. Palm trees, golden sand, lurking reptiles…

 Upon returning to the coach, Pia (the other Dane) and I forked out $70 each and took a ten-minute helicopter ride. Neither of us have been in a chopper before, and this was a superb place to experience it. Carl joined us for free, the lucky person, at the invitation of the pilot and he loved it as well.

Katherine Gorge is stunning both from close up and from 2000 feet in the air. They do offer longer tours, but $70 was about as much as I could justify and we also had a schedule to keep to. The pilot removed the rear doors which made it easier to take photos but hugely increased the wind and noise. If you’ve never been in a helicopter while it banks, either… wow. The bizarre thing is it’s almost a purely visual experience. You can’t actually feel it banking. It was a little too windy for too many aerobatics (I’m partly glad of that), and gusts did buffet our little copter as we made our way up the first three mini-gorges and back again. Definitely worth the money. As an aside, at the weigh-in before flying I found that I’m currently 73kg. That’s the lightest I’ve been in years, though it’s possibly down to dehydration!

 Our final lunch stop was at Edith Falls where we polished off the rest of the food before having a plunge and throwing a ball around in the water. The falls themselves aren’t that large or impressive, but the water’s lovely and clear. Just what we needed before being crammed into the bus again for the final northward stint.

Green Day and AC/DC blared on the stereo (thanks, Kiwi) as we sped up the Stuart Highway. We had a quick stop at Adelaide River (a town, not a waterway) at beer o’clock and met Charlie. He’s the buffalo from the Croc Dundee films. He died a few years ago and they had him stuffed. You can now have your photo taken with him or buy a little beer cooler with his name on.

And then on. To the final stop. Three days, 1500km and back to Darwin. My first stop in Oz, and most likely my last until I return – which I will do. I’ve still got the West to visit!

We met up for dinner later on at the Vic and we came third in the pub quiz. Two free jugs of beer! Whoop! Darwin’s definitely quieter than it was when I visited about 2 1/2 months ago. The Vic’s upper floor is shut and there are far fewer people around.

 Our group disappeared in little dribs and drabs as the majority were setting off for a 3-day Kakadu trip with a 6:20 pickup. Credit to the Bulgarian lad who lasted till almost 2am. I left Erin, the Canadian girl, at around 2:30 once the live music had finished and staggered back to the Cav. I found her on the stairs about 2 hours later munching crisps when I woke up to get some fresh air.

One final message – happy birthday to Sharna who I met in the Vic. Another nice Aussie I met who was great to chat to. Maybe I’ll see you again when I head back here! Posted by Picasa