Lighthouses, leopard sharks and lizards

Dive day today, but first I wanted to make a trip to the Byron Lighthouse and the most Easterly point of the Australian mainland. It’s roughly a two-hour trek if you stop to take pictures and go off down all the little trails to the viewing platforms – well worth the effort.

Just past the lighthouse (opened in 1901, part of a “string” of lighthouses across NSW and housing the most powerful light in Oz) I looked down into the clear blue sea and watched a pod of around ten dolphins play in the surf. Unreal.

At the hostel I had time to get lunch and changed before going to the dive shop. I’d heard good things about the Julian Rocks Marine Reserve and it didn’t disappoint. The boat ride out (on a twin engine dingy) was rough but exciting and the sea was amazingly clear once we were down – visibility topping 25m. I was buddied with a girl from Californis called Julia, the dive guide was called Julian (I think from France) and we were at the Julian Rocks. Go figure.

Highlight of the dive was getting stupidly close to sharks – leopard sharks. Unlike their namesake (with which they do share a similar skin pattern), these creatures really aren’t interested in eating people so it’s safe to swim by them as they snooze on the seabed. We also saw a turtle roughly 1.5m from top to toe as well as the usual variety of colourful and not-so-colourful fishies.

As we showered off on the shore, someone spotted a Goana (excuse my spelling – I’ve not looked it up), a large lizard. Snout to tail I’d put it at around 1.5m and it didn’t look happy. This could have been due to the bush turkey which was following it around and pecking at its tail. Still, I got close enough to it to get some good snaps.

Surf dude!

Amazingly, I was awake before 9am. I just couldn’t get back to sleep so I forced myself up and started on errands. Also amazingly, I wasn’t hung over. A large glass of water and I was fine.

The only bad result of the night out was my shirt stinking of smoke. Oz’s “no smoking indoors” policy varies from state to state and I don’t think it’s too well policed in resort areas, which sucks. It’s lovely and sunny here, so I did a quick was in the sink with some shower gel and hung the now none-smelly garment out to dry.

Breakfast was some fruit that I’d collected from the last hostel’s “free food” section and then I extended my stay by another two nights. Nice place, so no need to move on.

I needed to get myself to do something here, so I went to the travel office and sorted myself out with a surfing lesson for the afternoon (Black Dog Surfing) and a dive the next day (Byron Bay Dive Centre). Apparently the water here is great and the dives at Julian Rocks are only a couple of minutes’ boat ride from the shore.

I had been intending to do horse riding on the beach, but it’s $100 (more than a dive) and would take up an entire afternoon. I have a feeling I’ll return to Byron Bay sometime so it’s something to do then.

Surfing was great fun. The motto of the company is “If we can teach a dog to surf, we can teach you”. Well, they taught me. And that meand they can teach anyone. They guarantee to have you standing after one lesson or your next is free – everyone in our group was stable (ish) on a board at the end of the three hours.

I really wanted to get the pics they took, but at $15 per CD I just couldn’t justify the cost. I can surf again another time (board hire’s really cheap) and get someone else to take pictures for me.

Chris yesterday had got me talking about food and cooking, so I had a hankering for some decent grub. I bought a stack of veg and mince and treated myself to one of my for-the-lazy-cook stews. The bar here does happy hour (two for a fiver) beers from five till seven and I took full advantage of that while chatting to some of my fellow inmates.

Cheeky Monkey’s wasn’t as much fun as the previous night as I didn’t know anyone in there, so I just had the one beer before heading back to the hostel and a nice deep sleep.

ONE YEAR!!! I must be bananas


Happy birthday to me! Exactly a year ago today, I got on the plane from Heathrow and jetted off for Thailand to begin this insane trip. And you know what? My only regret is not doing it earlier in life (like when the Aussie government would let me work legally). Oh, and losing my girlfriend but that could have happened anywhere.

So what did I spend this important anniversary doing? Travelling. For twelve hours. But this is a good thing.

As plotted yesterday, I started off in the layby at the Sydney Harbour Bridge (south side) and within ten minutes had my first ride from a guy called Jason. He’s hitched across Europe so is always happy to pick up backpackers. He got me about 20km outside of the city and near a main artery road. There I was picked up by Roman – a builder/architect – who dropped me off a short distance up the road near Hornsby. Again, a good spot as many trucks go through here.

My one disappointment of the day came here. An Aston Martin DB9 drove past. In fairness, I don’t think it has enough luggage space for my rucksack, but I’d have at least have liked to try! Instead, Alan picked me up in his flatbed on the way to Gosford to drop off some industrial cleaning fluids to a garage there. After his errand, he went out of his way to drop me at a servo on the F3 where I chowed down on a McD’s and then jumped into a 4×4 for a short trip to the Pacific Highway junction (sorry – I forget the guy’s name who got me here).

I walked over the bridge there (safe – it’s a cycle path so walking must be alright) and had barely dropped my bags on the ground when Chris stopped. This was the golden lift – he wasn’t just going as far as Byron Bay, he was heading around 1000km north of Brisbane.

Roughly 8 hours and accompanied by a 1-ton machine part he was emergency-shipping to a mine somewhere, he dropped me at the outskirts of Byron Bay. Su-perb!

Chris was good company. We managed to natter for pretty much all of the journey and he even took my photo at the Big Banana in Coffs Harbour. Thanks, fella!

Oz has a huge collection of “Big” things – the banana, sheep, pineapples and a scary-as-all-hell shrimp on top of a BP garage we drove past. I will have nightmares. There’s also a miniature Uluru built by two guys who used to be on TV in the 60’s as the centrepiece for a themepark. Instead, they fell out and the big fibreglass monstrosity lay there for years until a garage chain bought it and built a shopping mall into the side. Bizarre.

After Chris dropped me off, I walked maybe a kilometre of the six towards the town centre when a minivan pulled up and the driver took me right up to the door of my hostel. Result – and my thanks to the driver who is also the owner of the 24-7 convenience store on Jonson Street!

Coach journey – 14 hours overnight (so no scenery) and $86. My journey time – 12 hours and completely and utterly free. I’d pretty much resigned myself to stopping somewhere 2/3 of the way up and getting to Byron on the 15th, but I made the whole trip in one go. Heck, had I been going to Brisbane, Chris could even have dropped me there – 1000km in one ride!

A couple of thanks, then, as I got two business cards:

  • For sprays that rejuvenate paintwork and are graffiti-proof, go to 2Guard and ask for Jason
  • Need something huge shipped across Oz on short notice? Contact 24/7 Parts Express at snowil@bigpond.net.au

I checked into the Aquarius hostel and dumped my stuff in the room. Nice place, if a little pricey – but all of Byron is expensive during peak season. The dorm’s nice with a sink and a fridge and tons of free space, plus it’s en-suite.

I desparately needed food as it was gone 10pm and I’d not eaten since lunch so I joined a group who were heading out for beer and detoured via a chippy for a chicken schnitzel, chips and gravy which was… erm… passable.

The people I’d headed out with seemed to have left the bar by the time I got there, but my antique Toon top got me chatting to about 12 people (I lost count of how many had recently spent 3 years at Newcastle Uni) and I spent most of the rest of the night with a guy from Nottingham.

We barhopped up to Cheeky Monkey’s which was passable as far as resort clubs go. $5 to get in and moderately expensive beer, but more eye candy than a whole street of sweet shops. I’ve yet to see an ugly woman in Byron – I don’t think they’re allowed in. Having said that, Byron’s female population alone could support any major make-up company for a year and keep them well in profit.

So, after going out for a quick bite and a beer, I collapsed in bed at around 3:30am… and read for 15 minutes before I nodded off.

What a way to spend a “birthday”!

Tip – Effective hitching

When hitch-hiking there are a few guidelines worth following:

  • Look presentable – who’s going to pick up someone who might make the car smell?
  • Be careful – obvious, really, but check out the area. For instance, I’d not hitch in the outback where there are no towns for 8 hours at a stretch. If someone seems dodgy, don’t accept a lift. Trust your instincts.
  • Scout your pickup point – it’s easier to have a wander the night or day before to see where’s good to stand with your thumb out. Much more convenient than trying it at rush hour with all your bags on you. Also ask other hitchers or locals.
  • Pick somewhere safe for the motorist – nobody’s going to stop on a busy dual carriageway unless you’re stood where they can get into a parking bay or similar.
  • Be prepared to stagger your trip – sometimes you know you’ll get a lift directly to your destination. Other times it’s worth accepting that “starter” to get you 30 miles up the road to a better position.
  • Carry some cash – it may be that someone can get you pretty close to your destination, maybe the outskirts of a town. You’ll need a few quid/dollars/kip/yen/whatever to catch public transport the last few miles. Invariably in built-up areas it’s very hard to hitch a short distance.
  • Carry a sign… or not? – I personally won’t pick up someone without a sign if I’m not in the mood. However, sometimes it’s worth not using one – or just stating which highway you want to travel along – so if someone you don’t like the look of pulls up you can ask them where they’re going and politely decline, saying you’re not going that way.

Vietnam revisited


I opted to stay on an extra day in Sydney as I got an email from Mike (he of Blue Dragon fame) saying he was in town. Obviously, Mike’s not often in Oz on holiday (he’s usually fundraising) so there wasn’t going to be much chance to catch up with him. Today was my only opportunity, so we grabbed lunch.

Other than that, I spent more time on The Walk, plotting some more of the route. And relaxing a handful of the rules regarding distance. Without route-planning software and a detailed knowledge of the locales I’ll be going through, it’d be nigh-on impossible to calculate. Instead, I’ll do at least (and as close to) 1000 miles as possible.

As I’m heading to Byron Bay tomorrow and I’ve opted to hitch, I thought it best to spec out the best “pickup points” within easy distance. The Sydney Harbour Bridge seems a good position. There’s a natural bottleneck and a rescue vehicle bay large enough for people to pull into should they not be scared off by me. The only downside is that there are around 6 lanes of traffic pulling onto the bridge and I can only “thumb” one of them. Also, most traffic will be heading south into Sydney in the morning, but if somonne can get me north as far as a motorway service station, I should be OK. Worst case, I get halfway up and stay the night somewhere different!

As I was up at the bridge, I decided to have a wander round on foot. The west side has a cycle path for crossing the harbour while the east has a pedestrian walkway. Connecting the two (on the south side at least) near the observatory is a small tunnel. Silly things I have noticed number 176: someone, somewhen thought it would be good to plant their dusty footprint on the wall in the tunnel. Someone else followed up. Now there is a huge pattern of footprints on both sides of the tunnel from end to end. Frankly, I think it looks really good – like some kind of urban graffiti, but wash-offable. However, it looks like nobody’s bothering to wash it off which is a good thing.

On the way back I finally found a Krisp Kreme doughnut (the Aussies spell it properly, unlike the Yanks) shop. I’ve been looking for one for ages as people keep telling me they’re better than Dunkin Donuts (or Donut King as they’re branded here). Well… they ain’t. They’re not bad by any stretch, but Dunkin still rule the roost do(ugh)nut-wise. As Hans said when we were travelling together, this is my blog and therefore I’m always right so that’s the end of that argument.