My second ever visit to Germany!

Given that my first was barely three months ago, this was still quite new territory. Last time I entered by bus and left by plane. This visit was to be somewhat more pedestrian.

My first overnight stop was in a small town called Roetgen which lies on the border. There are no signs telling you which country your in, but my host (Manfred) pointed out all the old border lines as we walked to the pub and back. Manfred’s family were amazing hosts. He himself is great to talk to and likes his football (even if he does follow Germany) while his wife makes an amazing chicken curry. The kids were great to spend time with and he has one of the nicest dogs I’ve met on my travels.

It was a shame I was only there the one night, but we made the most of it – much German beer was drunk as Germany beat Romania and England stuffed Russia. I slept soundly in my comfy caravan under a toasty blanket.

Back in Belgium

I worked out that this is my fifth visit to Belgium, making it my most-visited country in the world outside of the UK. This, however, was my first trip entirely on foot and also my first to the north-eastern part of the country. The first couple of days didn’t really show me much change from the Luxembourgish scenery as I continued to go through teeny (though nice) towns and woods.

The largest town in the region, and my main destination on this little dog-leg, was Liege. I had arranged two couchsurfing hosts, one for each of two nights, but due to changes in arrangements I ended up staying with just one host for my stay. Thank you to Sonia! Thank you also to Clara, Abo and Jacqueline as well as everyone else I met while I was there as well.

Like Turin, the couchsurfing scene here is incredible good with a nice community who go to plenty of trouble to ensure you enjoy your stay. Sonia showed me round one afternoon, I visited some of her friends, and we all had dinner together at Jacqeline’s.

Liege is a very old city with some churches and cathedrals dating back to the 11th century, perhaps earlier. It’s amazing that some of these are still standing and I got some great photographs of them. As ever, I’m not religious at all but to see what people can build for whatever reason never ceases to amaze me. Liege’s buildings aren’t as well-restored as those I saw in the likes of Paris, Metz or Nancy but sometimes an old building looks better with some grime on it and foliage growing up the sides. The interiors are generally a different matter with glowing stained glass windows and bright paintwork.

There is actually a fair amount to do in Liege according to the leaflet I picked up, but I didn’t have time for all the museums and so forth. I settled for being taken out on the Saturday night and forced to drink copious amounts of alcohol by Sonia and some of her work colleagues. Friday is apparently the main night out, but Saturday was hectic enough. There’s a very nice area in the town centre with a main shopping street flanked by a large number of narrow alleys. These alleys hold many pubs, clubs, cafes and restaurants and at night it erupts in to a near street-party as people flow from one to the other. Certainly great nightlife here!

There is more – some interesting sculptures dotted around and a scenic view from the war memorial at the top of 111 steps to name only a couple – so that I wish I had more time to spend. It’s a very “comfortable” city to someone from the north of England. It’s the right kind of grimy and the people are friendly! And let’s not forget the fantastic Belgian beer which I sampled far too much of. Only to be polite, you understand.

Next stop, though, would be Germany. My second visit and quite a few cities to get through. Thankfully someone had built them all close together.

Lovely Luxembourg

I only had a day or two in Luxembourg, but as I was walking through it I saw more than most people probably will on a visit! It’s possible to drive from one end to the other in a little over two hours (legally), whereas walking does take slightly longer.

Unfortunately I was unable to get a passport stamp at either end as there are no border patrols or customs. I suppose this makes things easier for everyone else but not for us stamp-collectors! Still, the scenery and so forth made up for it.

The main place of note on my visit was, of course, the capital – Luxembourg City. Virtually off of Luxembourg’s money is in here and it’s quite an international place. Walking around, you can hear several languages being spoken, mainly French, German and English. Quite a few people also speak Dutch although the native language, Luxembourgish (that’s what I was told to call it!) seems to be dying out. Listening to it, it’s quite a mixture of other tongues. Having said that, listening to most conversations between under-30s is like someone randomly skipping language tracks on a DVD.

The city is spread over a beautiful little valley with a couple of very tall bridges spanning it. Trees of a variety of colours fill it and it looks beautiful. Once I can get onto a PC with happy USB I will try to add some pictures to this post as well as a video to YouTube. Throughout the city are many small churches and grand historical buildings such as the magnificent parliament and the lovely old cathedral.

Luxembourg itself is around 40% forest which is handy as it provides many trees to pee behind. Necessary in a country where you even have to pay a Euro to use the loos in McDonalds! I actually think I found the only free public lavatory in the entire country – a portaloo in a courtyard round the back of the cathedral.

My host for one evening was Max, who lives in Diekirch off to the north east of Luxembourg City. Not on my original route, but by diverting off in that direction I added a few more miles, which is all good. Diekirch is also a brand of beer – brewed in the town – which I tried with Max and some of his friends as I helped them set up a LAN party in a large hall. I wish I’d had the time to stay over for a couple of nights and watch.

Instead, I set off the next day and made my way to Wemperhardt on the northern border. Another advantage of the forest is a huge amount of area available to campers. You’re never short of somewhere to pitch a tent once darkness falls!

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]

Tip (kinda) – What I have found out about France

I’m English. By law that means I’m supposed to hate France, insist that all the people are rude and tell you that Paris smells of stale pee and vomit with half-digested snails floating in it.

Sadly, I can’t. Because it’s great.

From Nice through Monaco (yes, not France, I know) and all the way up to Metz and Thionville in the north, I’ve met nothing but hospitality and politeness. OK, some people are rude – but certainly no moreso than back home. And sure, not everyone speaks English. But why the hell should they? This is France!

Some things I have noticed are worth pointing out for curiosity’s sake. Like every person I met who spoke English was afraid to speak it in case they got embarassed… usually over their accent. Very few thought their English was any good as they sometime (rarely, in all honesty) had to stop and think of words.

Let’s look at these points. A French person will speak English with a French accent. The same way Americans speak it with an American accent, an Aussie speaks with an Aussie accent and a Geordie speaks it like it should be spoken (not biased at all, honest guv). As for lacking a vocabulary, I know people at home who have to describe things they don’t know the words for. Let’s face it – English is huge. Anyone who can enter into a conversation with me and understand what I’m saying as well as make themselves understood is – in my books – “advanced”. Most I know have rated themselves as “intermediate” on Couchsurfing.

The further north you get, the more cheese becomes part of dinner. In Nice, it was served as a side dish before dessert. As you approach Luxembourg you find that cheese is dinner. There are restaurants where the entire menu is cheese-related. I’ve been told this is because it’s colder in the north so they wolf down cheese for energy. I’ll stick to chocolate.

Also, and I’ll get shot for this if anyone reads if before I cross the border, much as I’ve enjoyed the cheeses here (and I’ve had more variety in 4 weeks than in 33 years), good old very mature cheddar still rules. Of course, there are 400+ cheeses in France and I’ve probably only tried 15 or 20. Maybe they have a cheddar-beater. but I doubt it.

Cinemas pretty much always show films as “VF” (Version Français) if such a version is available. Arthouse cinemas are an exception and usually show films in whatever the original language is. Look for “VO” on regular cinema listings for “Version Originale”, as long as you don’t mind French subtitles. There’s a lovely old picture house in Nice which shows almost everything in English.

If you visit and stay with someone, expect to eat late in the evening. I was always used to eating dinner around 6pm at home. The French usually sit down at 8pm or later. Mind, they also have a late lunch which helps.

If I have a complaint about France it’s the way the shops remind me of England around 25 years ago. Almost everywhere is closed on a Sunday. Many places close for lunch as well – for 2 or 3 hours. Check the details of any city you’re visiting as some have a local “half day” as we used to back home when all the markets closed at lunchtime on Wednesday. In Metz, for instance, a lot of places are shut on Monday morning.

Don’t skip places if you’re driving around. This goes for Italy as well. Stop at every town you go past, even if only for ten minutes. And once in a while, go off the main roads and follow the “route national” (equivalent of our windy B-roads). There are many hidden treasures down there I’ve found on foot!

Definitely, definitely brush up on your French or at least get a phrasebook. It’s just polite – and necessary in some places. Most people under 25 will speak passable school-level English is pressed but surely it’s your job to speak the local lingo? This won’t be a problem anywhere touristy though. Tourist information people – even in the rural areas – often speak good English as well. If you’re anywhere near the Swiss border around Geneva, you’ll come across a lot of English being spoken. It’s virtually compulsory if you want to work in Geneva as it’s such an international city.

And don’t just stick to the likes of Paris, Nice and Strasbourg. Visit Metz, Nancy, Besançon… there are many towns which get little in the way of tourism and you have no idea what you’re missing out on.

Metz – not an alcopop

OK, Metz isn’t an alcopop any more but it used to be. In the UK anyway. It tasted of flat lemonade and I think it had vodka in. Anyway, this is not that Metz. This one is much older and still here, and a good thing too as it’s another place well worth a day or so of your touristy time and a roll of film.

I strolled into town and the first major building I noticed was the huge railway station. It looks positively ancient, but is apparently only just over 100 years old, built by Germans when the town was under their control. Metz has changed hands a few times over the years! It’s a fantastic building with a cathedral-like structure and related carvings on the front.

Out front is a very impressive flower display. If you pop into the station there are some stairs which lead to a balcony on the front so you can get an aerial view of the layout below and see the shapes made by the various plants. Pretty cool. There’s a video of the view on YouTube.

My hostess picked me up from the station and drove me to her flat where we had some dinner and I collapsed for the night after repairing her laptop. I had one day to be a tourist the next day and, with Laurène as my guide, wandered the (rainy) streets of Metz. We stopped at tourist information for a souvenir map where I was informed that there are several walks around Metz. All of these are marked by golden triangles in the ground which guide you on your chosen route. The map had information on each place along the walks.

Most of the buildings are made of a yellow stone, from the cathedral to the shops. It’s a local stone and makes the city look like it’s under a permanent street lamp. The aforementioned cathedral is the first thing we saw and it’s pretty much into the “huge” category – apparently one of the largest in France. Like Nancy, Metz has been spending some cash on restoration and cleaning. The cathedral is spotless in the areas where they’ve finished and the work seems to be continuing. Very impressive, very tall, very well decorated and with some lovely stained glass windows inside. As ever, I’m not remotely religious but it amazes me what people can build when they put their minds to it. Even if the building takes them 200 years.

From there, we found a park and some fountains which reminded me – on a smaller scale – of some of the Italian ones. The rain came down and we scurried into a shopping mall where I browsed through a book shop. A curious French hobby is collecting hardback comic books. Some of them look fantastic, though they’re not cheap at around seven quid for a 40-page story. There are thousands of these things and I wish they were in English so I could curl up and read through them!

As the rain eased, we headed for a pub where we’d arranged to meet Patricia and Lionel, two more couchsurfing hosts from the city. Patricia took us to a nearby pub where she seemed to know all the staff and regulars (good girl!). We enjoyed a couple of drinks and a good chat before Patricia had to leave. The remaining three of us finished our drinks, I admired the paintwork in the lavatories (very curious – cartoon willies jumping off cliffs) and we set off to see the city by night.

And what a sight. All the major buildings are lit up beautifully allowing for some great photos. The Temple Neuf which sits on bank where two parts of the river rejoin after flowing around an island has to be seen to be believed. The cathedral is also, obviously, lit up. A shame they had to build houses and shops in Metz as there’s no complete view of the building from a distance!

Lionel kindly drove us back to Laurène’s where we had a late dinner, watched some American TV shows in French and I unfolded my couch once more.

Again, I have had a great time and met some wonderful, generous people. Thanks to you all for making this visit even better than I’d hoped!