Clambering up Fansipan

Photo taken by Iain Purdie, 26th April 2007. P...

By far and away the most popular page I’ve had on the blog is the one regarding my climb up Fansipan in Vietnam. I get a ton of comments on it, all asking the same questions. Hopefully this post will answer a lot of them to save me being asked them over and over! If there’s anything I missed, then please do ask and I’ll update this post.

Do note that I last visited Sapa in April 2007, so prices and so forth may have changed since then.

I booked my trip through the Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel. I’ve been told they’re not the cheapest to go with, but they generally get you a really good deal, with a reputable company at the other en. This goes for their other excursions as well. The trip included all of the following:

  • 1st class return train travel to Lao Cai
  • return bus trip to Sapa from Lao Cai
  • guide
  • accommodation (train is overnight so includes bunks)
  • meals while on the trek
  • transport to the start point of the trek, and back to town after
  • transport to / from Hanoi railway station from the hostel
  • use of shower facilities back in town after the trek

The above cost me around $120 – I can’t recall the exact amount, sorry, but that’s about right. Note also that I did the trek in two days. The norm is three and I have met one person who did it in a single day and who heartily recommended against this.

I can’t recommend a good company to book with in Sapa as I didn’t do things that way. Likewise I can’t tell you the name of the company I went through as it was all booked via the hostel. Sorry.

It is possible to book the trip in Sapa itself, or in Hanoi or many other places in Vietnam. One thing to watch for is booking the train tickets – do not expect to get any “on the day”. Train tickets in Vietnam sell very quickly, especially on the major routes. They’re also usually bought up very quickly on release by various agencies, and Vietnamese do get preference over foreigners. Simply put – try and book a package from somewhere or at least book well in advance (a week or so).

The guide carries the food you’ll need. At the small village we stopped at, food was provided there. The next rest stop (the one I didn’t use) is just a shack / campsite higher up with no locals living there. The guy I went with wasn’t the best guide as he split the two-day trip in a bad place. Very short first day, VERY long second! I think it was just the 2-day rather than 3-day that threw him out of whack. He certainly knew the route and was great company in the evening.

The first stage of the walk is very light. Therefore if you want, you could carry packs to the village and then leave a lot of things there for collection the next day once you’ve done the peak. Again, though, I’d check with the agencies in town. Many will look after your kit there so you don’t even have to get it anywhere near the mountain. The one I used let me shower in the hotel next door when I returned as well – no extra charge – as my next stop was the train station to return to Hanoi.

You shouldn’t need any more equipment. I didn’t take my sleeping bag or anything. Again, I can’t vouch for the accommodation nearer the peak, but the village provides a wooden hut with bamboo “bedding” and blankets. It was bloody cold, so an extra sleeping bag may not be a bad idea. An inflatable mattress for comfort is personal choice, but if you’re used to sleeping on foam camping mats, then the bamboo suspended bed is about as “comfortable” 😉

Overall, just enjoy the trip. It’s hard work but well worth it.

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BBQ with a view

Preparation of multiple JagerbombsImage via WikipediaBig night out, this one. Sunday saw our last guests being escorted to Geneva and dispatched homeward-bound. About 2/3 of the resorts are still operational for one more week, but Chamonix has officially shut up shop.

So what do you do when the resort closes, all the guests have gone and you have around 30-40 staff with nothing to do, at the same time, for the first night in almost 5 months?

You fire up the barbie, put the two Aussies in charge of it, and get monumentally wrecked. Of course. My beer count for the night was as follows:

  • 1 bottle Brown Ale
  • 1 bottle raspberry beer
  • 1 shot apple vodka
  • 6-7 stubbies of beer
  • 1 stubbie cider
  • 2-3 classes of very potent punch
  • 3 vodka jellies
  • 1 pint cider
  • 1 Jager-bomb
  • 1 bottle Carlsberg (or something – I can’t remember)
  • 1 bottle Desperados

BBQ with a viewI may have been a little tiddly and somewhat late for work the next morning. As you can hopefully see from the attached picture, the view past the barbecue was phenomenal. The food wasn’t half bad either. Proper sausages, great chicken legs, steak, burger, corn…

All this was followed by a lengthy “Oscars” ceremony filled with awards such as “Most improved snowboarder”, “Most tardy hotel worker”, “Biggest slapper” (I was most upset not to even receive a nomination) and so on. Pete and the gang did a great job of putting it together. Although I did notice they want onto drinking shots of Coke about halfway through. Lightweights.

If memory serves, the rest of the night involved Bar D’up (where we were kindly supplied with free Jager-bombs), La Cantina and La Terrace. I’m not sure what time I staggered home but I had been awake for something approaching 24 hours by that stage so I think my little lie in the next morning can be excused.

Food and water

Terme Pre-Saint-DidierWe decided to do something different on my day off, and Leah has wanted to go to a spa in St Gervais. My boss, however, handed me some leaflets from a place over the hills (or through the Mont Blanc Tunnel) in Cormayeur. A bit of a traipse but actually easier to get to as they were offering a free bus service for a limited time. Big saving as it’s €40 return for the tunnel alone. The spa was called the Terme Pre-Saint-Didier and we opted for it. This would make it the third spa I’d been to on my trip along with Cologne and Hanmer Springs.

Glad we did as well. The free bus was almost exactly 15 minutes late at the pick-up point (with the same delay on the return trip), but otherwise it was a great day out. The spa were offering a deal to get cheap tickets for a chairlift up onto the Hellbronner pass but we decided against that as the weather was really poor. For €35 each, we got the full run of the place (which was enormous); towel, sandal and bathrobe; body lotion; and grub. Lots of grub. Lovely grub. Bready products, very good quality fresh fruit, delicious yoghurt and about 6 different fruit (and vegetable) drinks. Available all day as a buffet.

Having a splashThe sheer variety of rooms and so forth was staggering. Leah had a mud bath for an additional €10 and aside from that, everything else we did was in with the cover charge. There was a large outdoor area where we enjoyed the snow landing on our heads as we basked in warm water (with jets). We laughed at a very skinny girl with boobs far too large for her running across the cold ground to one of the saunas. I overheard a couple in one of the steam rooms definitely having more than just a conversation and a civilised sweat.

There were waterfalls, bubble baths, chromatography pools, whirlpool baths, saunas of various temperatures, saunas with various smells (including pine – fantastic – and hay, which was more reminiscent of a hamster cage), steam rooms, a Turkish sauna with scented salt to rub on, hot showers, cold showers, a fire room, an air room with hanging baskets to sit in, a water relaxation room with water beds, a darkened relaxation room with soothing music… the list goes on.

Yes, in places it could have done with a lick of paint (literally – probably moisture getting under the last coat) but other than that it was superb. Clean, well-decorated, well-lit and with very new-looking equipment. You can tell we had a good time, can’t you? My back’s even been better since we’ve been. That won’t last long with the crappy bed in my apartment but never mind.

The Chomoatography PoolWe caught the last afternoon bus back and chilled out for a little as we waited for dinner at the Sap at 20:00. Only when we got there, Pieter apologised profusely as he’s forgotten they had to cater for an additional 12 guests and couldn’t squeeze us in. No problem. As a bonus, the overseas director had told me to take my guest out for dinner on the company when she was visiting. Chris, one of the head chefs, recommended Casa Volaria out past the casino so we walked down there.

Definitely a good choice for Leah, who had some kind of dead sea thing and pasta. I settled on a 300g rib steak that was very well cooked but about 50% fat and gristle. A shame as my starter and dessert were both very nice indeed. Mind, I can’t complain as I pocketed the receipt to shove on expenses. Our thanks to Goran!

The following evening, we did get that dinner in the hotel. The advantage for me was that we had been going on a Tuesday when I’d eaten there before so the menu was the same. This way I got to try another couple of dishes, although we missed sticky toffee pudding night. Instead we had to put up with chocolate brownies. For which I’ve been ordered to get the recipe to Leah. So she was impressed, then.

More chomatographic wonderfullnessNext day was home day for Leah. After a mad panicked dash around half of Chamonix to find our handyman (who’d gone AWOL with the van keys), we set off a little earlier than originally planned. Apparently there was some kind of demonstration closing the tunnel which was causing problems with traffic all around town. I found a rat-run to get us passed it and we raced off to the airport in the brake-less deathwagon. In fairness the brakes worked. If you hammered the middle pedal down, allowed for 2-3 times the braking distance and covered your ears to the grinding sound. Not ideal as the heavens opened on the journey to Geneva. It was raining so much I actually stuck to the speed limit for most of the drive.

Thankfully the rain eased off on the way back, although it came down in town again today. Looks like the season may be drawing to a close. This weekend coming we are taking guests to Geneva and not bringing any more back with us. I will not make any more statements about this reducing the possibility of disaster. Not after last time.

Needles, curries and chaos

Cable carAs detailed in the previous post, Leah arrived this week (actually, now last week) and we decided we’d do something more than laugh at her inability to stand upright on a plank of wood this time. As such, Friday saw us ascend the scarily high cable car up the Aiguille du Midi. This ain’t cheap, coming in at €38 (£30 at current rates each) for the return trip but for one of those things we’re both likely to do only once…

Was it a great experience? Yes, definitely. Was it worth thirty squids? Hmm. I suppose so, seeing as it’s effectively a unique trip. The view was certainly splendid, with clear skies giving us quite a distance to squint in the sun to see as far as we could. The local wildlife (mainly blackbirds of some description) were pretty fearless and happy to perch within easy reach of a non-zoomed camera.

BirdThere isn’t a lot to actually do up there unless you’re a particularly experiences skier/boarder with a fair amount of expensive equipment. Ropes, crampons, radio locators and so on are compulsory for anyone considering traversing the Mer de Glace. With my lack of experience and the avalanche warning indicator reading 4/5 I wasn’t really up for it anyway. A British snowboarder died up here about a month ago as well. There’s reason they recommend you get insurance when you do snow sports.

In case I didn’t get the point across, though – the view is fantastic. I took quite a few photos, some dotted around here, and a short video that I’ve posted on YouTube. Sadly, we didn’t have time to get up to the peak (accessed by a separate lift). I’ve been told that section includes an engineering museum of sorts. The last car down was around 16:30 and we were pushing it to ensure we weren’t crammed onto it like sardines. We caught the one before and “enjoyed” (OK, Leah hated) the sudden drops which were part of the descent. Not aided by some middle-aged chap screaming like a girl every time the car dipped.

Oh, the “needles” in the post title refers to this peak. The name translates literally as “Needle of Midday”, a reference to the fact that at noon the sun hangs directly over the peak when viewed from the town below.

Chamonix from Aiguille du MidiOn Saturday, Leah bent to my begging and allowed me to sit in Bar D’up to watch the football. I was only interested in the FA Cup match, and well done to Portsmouth. Shame for WBA, as I think they had it in them to at least get it to extra time.

Sunday. Ah, Sunday. That’s the “chaos” above. You know in the last post I mentioned that this was our last weekend with a full set of open resorts, and that therefore there should be less possibility of problems? I opened my gob too soon…

Combine the snow in the UK with the fact that one of our planes had been taken out for servicing (meaning that all the guests supposed to be on it were split over two smaller aircraft with an hour’s difference in arrival time) and everything went to pot. All of the coach departures had to be recalculated, people moved, extra feeder buses drafted in and guests were made to wait for the next flight to land before they could get to resort.

Having said that, we did deal with everything and the majority of guests were really nice about it. Probably as they were too tired to make a fuss. In fairness, it was obvious that the situation was completely out of our hands. Many of them had sat on the runway at Gatwick watching as a foot of snow was swept off the wings of the aircraft. For four hours. Of course, we had one or two (pretty much precisely one or two, out of a few hundred) who decided to try and take their frustrations out on some of our staff by yelling and basically being rude. The workers had likely been up from an earlier hour than any of our guests and were doing their best to deal with a bad situation. I’d recommend that if you’re the kind of person who shouts at people as a means of trying to make yourself feel better about something, you don’t try it on with one of our staff (or anyone else’s, frankly). You’ll find that the majority will just stare at you, turn around and walk off. As they should. And you’ll just get more wound up at their “rudeness”. We’re actually told to do this. Partly as you’re just being pathetic, and partly as these people aren’t paid enough to deal with abuse, especially when it’s a result of something they and we had no control over. Deal with it. To the vast, vast majority of our guests this Sunday I would like to say “thanks”.

Structure at the peakAnyway, I ended up being late back from the airport and missed the kickoff of the second FA Cup semi-final. Shame as it was a good match and well done to Cardiff (the land of my father, quite literally) in making it to the final. I’ll be rooting for them partly from heredity, and partly as it’ll cause the English FA a problem as they’re saying they won’t give the FA Cup-winner’s UEFA spot to Cardiff if they win. I’m sure that’ll be forced to change if Cardiff take the cup.

I should also mention that I kind of left the lights on on Sheridan’s car. So by the time she and Lisette got back to it, the battery was a little flat… Whoops. Fortunately they were parked on the roof of the carpark so rolling it down the ramp would be an easy way to bump-start it.

Unless the car was, let’s say, a Toyota Yaris. They have a little “feature” that means for the engine to turn over you have to have the clutch pedal pushed in. This is, I suppose, to stop you turning the engine over with the car in gear, thus lurching forward or back and smashing something. It also makes it impossible to bump start. Ah well, they got a jump start from one of the airport staff soon enough and got back in one piece. I’m blaming Lisette as I’ve never left the lights on before and this is the first time in weeks that she’s been in the car. Therefore the was the off factor out so must be to blame for me not hearing the shrill beep of the warning tone when we got out.

View over mountainsBack to the evening. After some beer/wine, we looked for somewhere to eat and ended up settling on the Annapurna curry house again. Leah had never been for an Indian before, the prices were keen and I knew the food was good. And it was. Again. The restaurant wasn’t so busy this time and by the time we left around 21:00, I think we were the only ones left. We got chatting to the man who runs it who, it turns out, is from Mauritius. Quite a jump from the splendid beached of this tiny island nation to the mountains of the Alps! Regardless, the food was superb and I’m promising myself at least one more meal there before the season ends.

Back to work today, though I have tomorrow off. Tonight’s plan is for half-price chicken wings at MBC again. I expect to be very full by around 20:00. I am almost belching in advance!

Finally, a quick “congratulations” to Delphine, who just landed herself a job in Paris. Sounds pretty cool, too. All to do with earth shifting and seismics and stuff.

Busy, busy, busy

Statue of de Saussure in town centreLiam and John left the other day, a pair of very disappointed guests. Disappointed that they had to leave! Liam in particular was bemoaning how much he’d miss the scenery. We had a dusting of snow overnight and the trees this morning looked like they were caked in icing sugar. It’ll all be gone by lunchtime, though.

Next up on the visitor list is the lovely Leah, who must like it here as this will be her second visit! We’ve got some plans for while she’s here so hopefully some more interesting things to tell you about. I may also have a trio of Italians popping over from Torino later in April. Andrea, Allesandro and Sara are trying to sort out a weekend that’s convenient for them all to come over and play in the snow.

I last saw Andrea in August when he gave me an old map to find my way over the peaks of the Park Grand Paradiso as part of my 1000 Mile Walk. Alessandro put me up in Turin for a couple of nights as my feet recovered from the walk from Giuly’s parents’. Giuly herself won’t be able to make a return visit as she’s shoulder-deep in work. A shame as she really enjoyed her last visit.

Wow. That was a lot of links.

Well, workwise here I’m prety busy with a lot to do as the season comes to an end and resorts close. Here in Chamonix we have one more week of guests, and a handful of other resorts close in just over a week as well. I’ll be getting a fair bit of the IT equipment back for a clean down and reconfigure in preparation for storage and next season.

In amongst all that, I’ve got quite a few more tasks. Geek hat on:

  • Set up emails for Austria, Switzerland and Italy
  • Configure file upload/download accounts for all resorts
  • Write documentation for next year’s training on the above
  • Set up every resort PC for multiple users/email accounts
  • Document all procedures and make them accessible as WordPress posts on the intranet
  • Configure backup procedures on the Ubuntu server
  • Setup automatic backups on local desktop machines
  • Configure spare PCs as hot-swap backups
  • Clear out all the rubbish we’ve not used this season and recycle / skip it
  • Provide a full inventory of IT stock
  • Move accounts data onto the server and secure it
  • Write a fax notification routine for the server

And anything else that comes up. Oh, and airport transfers. At least this Sunday will be the last one with the full complement of guest transfers. Theoretically, this means less possibility of screw-ups.

The thing with theories, however, is that they are often disproved…

(Oh, and a quick “hello” to Gerry – thanks for the email and the kind comments!)