To Rovaniemi! Or… not

Today’s the day the plans changed.

I woke at Mike’s and sorted all my stuff out. I’d arranged to meet the others at the airport where Antoine had hired a car for the journey to Rovaniemi where we were to meet Heydi and some other surfers for the weekend.

A tram into the city and then a bus to the airport makes it an easy journey. There is a regular service bus (the 651, I believe) from the train station but I couldn’t find hide nor hair of it. I did spot the 451 which said it went to the airport, but it didn’t seem to run on the weekend schedule, which was being used due to the holiday.

I ended up on the official aiport shuttle bus, which costs a little over €6. I like that you can pay with Visa on board, so no need to grab any cash from an ATM. You can pretty much use plastic anywhere and for any amount in Finland.

I hooked up with Tiina when I got to the airport. Ulf was busy swearing at his laptop in the car somewhere and Antoine was trying to figure out exactly which company he’d hired the other car through. There were no ofices available under the name of the company he’d booked with. They must have been an agency that then deals direct with someone else.

We left him to find an internet connection so he could re-check his emails and sat and chatted for a bit. Then we decided to unload Tiina’s car and get everything into the terminal ready for Antoine’s girlfriend arriving so we could take everything to the new car in one go.

Only Antoine went to get the car and rang us to say he was parked near Tiina’s car, so we had to double back and take everything over to that one while he waited for his partner to get through customs.

As we were packing the car up, Tiina was mentioning about a party in Helsinki and a lot of thoughts that had been bothering me started to flood in. The 10-hour plus car journey to Rovaniemi. Getting back from there to Brussels in 4 days. Finding anywhere to stay while I hitched down. Not having seen much of the area I was already in. Getting up north and not having the time to see a lot of places up there I’d already hoped to.

So… I opted to stay in Helsinki for the weekend. After Ulf had magically made all of our luggage fit. So he had to “unfit” it so I could retrieve the beer, though I did leave them two bottles of vodka as an apology. I hope that helped toward my share of the car hire and fuel costs.

We loaded up Tiina’s car which she had to return to her mother. He mum’s a really nice lady who doesn’t speak a word of English, but who was happy to show off her apartment with it’s own 2-person Finnish sauna! She dropped us back off at Tiina’s before whisking the car away again. I settled into Tiina’s, had a shower (it was a really humid day) and after a light lunch we started cracking open the beers and watched a couple of DVDs.

Thing is, the party never really happened. One friend of Tiina’s, Lauri, came over and helped us drink more beer before we all nodded off at some silly time in the morning. I didn’t even make it as far as the blow-up bed, choosing to crash on the huge sofa instead. I swear this constant daylight plays tricks with your mind!

Tiina surfaced really late on in the day, making the most of her day off work. We packed some more beer into a carry-bag and jumped on a train into town where we transferred onto a ferry bound for Suomenlinna. This is a small island around 15 minutes’ boat ride off the coast where a fortress was built back in 1748. It was constructed by the Swedes (then owners of what is now Finland) as protection against the Russians.

Many Fins head there for an afternoon, taking picnics and beer to chill out. It’s quiet, clean and nicely situated to watch the enormous ferris pass by on their way to Sweden. At around 5pm, two of them went past where we were sitting and it’s an amazing site. The channel they’re sailing down looks far too small for them but is deceptively deep, and they dwarf everything nearby.

After a couple of hours, we travelled back to Tiina’s loaded up on more beer and food and walked round to Lauri’s.

I want his apartment.

I mean to say, if I was designing my own it would bear a remarkable similarity to his. The main room’s all black wood with a projector instead of a TV. Two life-size plastic models of characters from computer games “guard” the sofa and old editions of Judge Dredd reprints (in Finnish) adorn the walls. Then there’s the 24Mbit internet connection, which makes browsing the net feel like you have a local copy of it on the hard drive.

He also showed me possibly one of the coolest historical artefacts I have ever held in my hands – and I mean “cool” with as much respect as that word can be used. It was his grandfather’s war diary written during the months he served in WWII. It was all in Finnish, but with some illustrations. Tiina has read some of it and the details are apparently – to say the least – harrowing. Lauri is thinking of working on a book based on the information from it, including a full English translation. As soon as it appears on Amazon, I will be buying a copy.

We drank beer, enjoyed a decent dinner and watched a couple more films – and lots of Family Guy. Once more, far too late in the day (or early, depending how you judge it) Tiina and I walked back to her apartment and crashed. This time I tested out her inflatable bed. Really handy in a 1-bed apartment as it inflates in about a minute using an inbuilt electric pump. It’s pretty comfy, but I preferred the couch.

Zemanta Pixie

Arrival in Helsinki

The magic ferry with free wireless pulled into port around 13:00 and I lugged the vast quantities of alcohol I’d bought down into the arrivals area. This is obviously a common reason for a trip to Estonia as others had trolleys laden with cases of beer.

I had a short wait as the nice people who were picking me up were stuck in traffic. A little late, though, the group of them appeared. Ulf (who I’d met in Bonn and Cologne), Tiina (a local Couchsurfing ambassador) and Antoine (from France, visiting Finland). We loaded the car up and drove over to Mike’s place.

Mike’s an American living in Helsinki with his Finnish girlfriend and he’d agreed to host me for the night as Tiina’s place was full of Ulf and Antoine. Unfortunately, he was away for the day but had left us a key in a little security box attached to the boot cleaner outside his flat. And one of the buttons on the box was slightly dodgy. It took us about 5 minutes to get into the thing, but once we did we got into the flat so I could ditch my bags.

We popped via a supermarket for Tiina to sort out her recycling. I tell you, this country is a world apart. I believe the system’s the same in Estonia from what I gathered when I was there, but I hadn’t seen the machines in action. Rather than the usual bottle banks we have in the UK where you simply throw things in and walk off, these ones scan each and every item inserted, read the bar code and credit you the deposit for them. Deposits vary depending on material (plastic, glass, cans) and size.

I’m impressed. We should really do something like this in the UK. Introduce money into the equation and people really start to think about recycling. The closest we’ve got is various councils threatening to fine people for throwing out too much non-recycled rubbish. Quite a challenge when they’re so picky about what recycled material they’ll take, how often they’ll collect it, the size of the containers they’ll give you to keep it in and assuming that every household consists of two people (maximum) who eat nothing but home-grown vegetables.

A tram took us into Helsinki centre where Tiina showed us around for an hour or so. It’s quite a small city centre with a handful of sites. You can walk around almost everything that’s worth seeing in less than an hour. It’s fairly clean, safe, flat and everyone speaks English so it’s hard to get lost.

We walked past the Tuomiokirkko (Lutheran church), a huge white building that looks like it got  a fresh lick of paint only hours ago. Further along the same road is the red Uspensky Cathedral used by the Russian Orthodox population (less than 0.5% of Finnish population is Orthodox).

The market is nice to see (apart from the fish stalls – yuck) as most stalls are selling fresh fruit. Strawberries and cherries were everywhere, so the smell was fantastic. Oh, and the women serving in them were without exception drop dead gorgeous.

Yup, Baltic women. They are as pretty as they’re made out to be. Seriously, it’s hard to look in one direction for more then 30 seconds without seeing at least one woman of model-level stunningness. I wasn’t even searching them out. They were just everywhere!

Trying to keep my attention on the architecture, we walked up through Esplanade Park and settled on the grass to munch on ice cream. If you visit here, one word of warning – watch out for the seagulls. They’re evil. Very, very evil. They will think nothing of dive-bombing you, knocking your ice cream off the cone and fighting over it on the ground. I watched this happen to one girl who was a little peeved about it to say the least.

This makes Helsinki one of the few places I’ve visited where pigeons aren’t the most hated avian species. I reckon they probably run a close second. Other bird, the smaller and cuter ones, will hop very close to you in their search for crumbs – something I’ve noticed in many countries outside of the UK. This rarely happens in the UK where you’re lucky to get within three metres of something the size of a thrush or smaller.

Tiina had to go to work, so she left us to find the bar where a couchsurfing meeting had been organised. Hemingway’s was only a short walk out, so we opted for a stroll and a chat. Ulf and I argued over stuff like we always do while Antoine worked out the directions. Incorrectly in the first instance, but we corrected and got to the bar without any problems.

There were a few people already there when we arrived and I’m going to apologise straight up for not remembering any names. By the end of the evening, around 30 people had passed through and it was a huge mix of people from so many countries. One girl I talked to was born in the Ukraine of Russian parents, grew up in France, spent 12 years in Boston and now lives in Finland. She was sat with a guy who was visiting from the Dominican Republic, somewhere I confessed I couldn’t find on a map without serious help.

Ulf segregated himself from the rest of the crowd by loudly supporting Germany as they beat Italy in the Euro 2008 match on TV. I confess to preferring the Deutch as well, simply because they don’t cheat like the Italians do.

Mike turned up with his girlfriend, and we were the last to leave along with Ulf and Antoine. I used my memory of Thailand and Vietnamese motorcycle taxis not to lose my seating as Mike zoomed us around the city to Tiina’s place of work. She was due to finish around that time so we’d arranged to head up there and collect her.

The crowd of us went back to Mike’s flat where we shared a couple more beers and talked for an hour or so. I swear people drink for so long here just because they don’t realise how late it is. At some time around 2:30am, Tiina drove Ulf and Antoine back to her place and it was still daylight.

Mike’s couch turned out to be very comfortable indeed.

Zemanta Pixie

Terve Finland!

I’ll update with more later, but just to let everyone know I made it safe and sound to Finland. I’ve met up with some great people, had a night out and am about to head off into the wilds of the north. Not sure when I’ll get ‘net access again so likely expect a large update at some point!

I… AM ON… THE FERRY!!!!

OK, I’m impressed. I am on a laptop. I am online. I am on a ferry. And it’s free.

I feel like firing up Skype, calling someone loudly and shouting “I… AM ON… THE FERRY!!!” down the line like that not very funny guy on TV.

Seriously. Free wi-fi on a ferry. How cool is that?

My only problem is trying to figure out how I’m going to carry all the booze I intend to buy when the shop opens. For a start, I have to wander around the store with three rucksacks. Then I have to get it all off the ship when I arrive. I have a car waiting (thank you Tiina!) but I still need to make my way through customs etc with a few boxes, bags and bottles.

Should be a giggle.

Zemanta Pixie

Leaving Estonia

It was only a brief trip, but I did enjoy my stay. Made all the more pleasant by my wonderful Couchsurfing hosts Johnny and Lena. Thank you both so much!

I’m currently sat in the waiting lounge before hopping onto my ferry to Helsinki, where I should arrive in about 2 1/2 hours. Bizarrely, simply because it’s common sense, the wi-fi here is free while the supplied PCs cost money to use. Having said that, there are two wi-fi signals – one of which is charged!

Well, boarding is in two minutes so I best hurry. Next post from Finland!