Tip: Tallinn and Estonia

Location of Tallinn municipality in Estonia

I didn’t do a massive amount today, really just a stroll around, but I’m glad to say the weather was a lot better. A bit breezy, but with a warm sun. Much improved on the rain from yesterday.

As I didn’t do too much I thought I’d fill up the space on today’s post with a bunch of tips. A lot of these will hold for other cities and countries (and I’ve possibly mentioned them before) but they’re just things to let you know about Tallinn and Estonia.

The currency in Estonia is currently the Estonian Crown, or Kroon (EEK). At the time of writing it’s pretty much 20 EEK to 1 Pound Sterling, so a Kroon is 5p. However, it’s linked to the Euro (you’ll see some things priced in Euros, though I’m not sure if they’re readily accepted yet) and all signs are that Estonia will be making “the switch” soon. It also means that Estonia would have been cheaper to visit last year when the point was stronger against the Euro.

Shop around for souvenirs and so on. In the Old Town, expect to pay 10EEK (50p, 1 US dollar) for a postcard. Slightly further out, some stalls do them for 7EEK and a shop in the Post Office (Eesti Post) on Narva mnt. has some for only 4EEK. I did see some girls in the street wearing red jackets and selling cards and guidebooks. I have no idea how much they were charging, but I’d bet they weren’t cheap. The cost of sending a postcard back to the UK is 9EEK (€0.58) – both prices are on the stamp.

Traffic is OK around Tallin. It’s busy, but generally speaking quite safe. Crossings are common and even at the non-lit ones, traffic seems to stop politely. Except public buses and trams. If you’re crossing past a stationary tram, then check when you get past it that there’s not another coming the other way.

English is commonplace in Tallinn, as is the obvious Estonian language. Many people also seem to still speak Russian and a few signs are dotted around in Cyrillic. I was surprised in one shop to find that the younger assistant didn’t speak English, but her much older colleague did! In almost every other country, it’s the other way around.

Food varies in price a lot. You can pay hundreds of EEK for a mail in one of the medieval restaurants on Vana turg, or as little as 20 EEK for a burger from one of the kiosks. These are usually dribbling with a pink sauce, kind of similar to the sauce used in a Big Mac. But with much, much more of it. There is a McD’s in Tallinn, but I didn’t go on – I popped into Hesburger (a Finnish chain) just down from it and had one of their chicken tortillas. It wasn’t bad, though the sauce was kind of curry-ish. Strange. It cost me 60EEK for a regular sized meal.

Public transport is pretty good, though I chose to walk everywhere as I needed the exercise! Buses are frequent and the tram system’s good. A journey costs 20EEK if you buy the ticket from the driver. I believe they’re slightly cheaper if you get them from the kiosks.

The airport in Tallinn is a short journey from the city. The bus is the same price as anywhere else, no artificial fees for being at an airport as you get in other countries. 20EEK will get you to the bus station on the outskirts. A taxi will set you back 60-80 EEK, probably more.

The other main transport method around here is the ferry with boats heading out frequently. Prices vary depending on so may factors I can’t give you a list, but generally it’s cheaper to book in advance and get a slow boat. I’d also recommend, if possible, booking direct with the ferry company as you’ll not have a travel agent fee (around 60 EEK) added.

Or if you want to be flash, you could get on Copterline and fly to Helsinki in 18 minutes – the fastest regular “capital to capital” trip anywhere in the world. According to them anyway. It’s not cheap, though this summer they’re doing a 1-way for €99.

Right, I’m waiting for my kind hosts to come in so we can warm up some pizza and share a bottle of plonk! Next stop, Helsinki…

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Tervist Eesti!

Somehow I survived the living hell of Stansted (again) – I am so not looking forward to flying back in again after Graspop. It has the worst queues for passport control of any airport I have ever been in. Madness.

Anyway, the good side is that I arrived in perfect time (10 minutes early, in fact) at Tallinn Airport in Estiona. This was a much nicer, quicker welcome than I got back into the UK and shortly after getting my bags I met up with Johnny. He and his wife Lena were to be my Couchsurfing hosts here in Estonia. I’d not expected an airport pickup, so it was a very pleasant surprise and we had a nice little natter on the way to their flat.

The area around the airport is nothing out of the ordinary as far as cities and urban areas go. It’s neither Gothic like Romania, or Communist like Belarus. It’s just… western Europe. I was surprised to see how expensive fuel was, though – around 80% of the UK price. I’d expected that to be lower.

Johnny dropped me off and gave me the front door key while he returned to work. I had a much-needed shower and got ready to go out… until the heavens started to rumble and rain bucketed down. I don’t recall the list time I could actually watch rain arriving the way it did here. You can see what I mean on this YouTube video.

The cat got a little scared, so I had a cuddly bundle in my arms as the rain powered down. I’m glad I’d taken the time for a shower indoors rather than suffer the deluge outside. Eventually it eased off somewhat, I grabbed my daybag and headed out.

Johnny had sorted me with a map and some points of interest to check out, as well as bus numbers. The distance didn’t seem too bad so I decided to walk it instead. By my reckoning, the Old Town was around 45 minutes away by foot. As I strolled, I walked past a few things of interest, some of which I had to check with Johnny afterwards as the detail on them was Cyrillic.

The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds are quite impressive with an enormous arch covering the amphitheatre. At a guess, I’d say it goes almost as high as the Millennium Bridge on Tyneside. Facing the stage is a statue of a man admiring the performance. I’m not sure who it’s meant to be, though!

Further down the road is a statue of an angel holding a cross. A quick Google got me the following information:

It’s for a Russian ship named Russalka, which sank in the Gulf of Finland in 1893. Well actually it’s for the 177 men who died there. It’s made by Amandus Adamason, an Estonian sculptor, in 1902.

The cross in her hand points in the direction of where the ship sank. It’s a great statue and you can climb up around the base for a view over the Gulf.

On I walked and made it to the outskirts of the Old Town on schedule. The map Johnny had given me wasn’t bad, but the streets in Tallinn meander in curves so it’s easy to lose track of where you are. I spent a good couple of hours stretching my legs – well-needed after the concrete floor I spelt on the previous night – and seeing the sights.

The Old Town area does have some fantastic old buildings, though they’re often mixed with more modern ones. The styles vary a lot from street to street to it’s an interesting mix. The grandest was without a doubt the Alexander Nevski Cathedral opposite Toompea Castle. You can tell it’s a Russian Orthodox church purely from the minarettes and turrets. It’s very well tended and looks 10 years old, not 200, if a little “blingy”.

There are a couple of viewpoints from the old city walls, though the only one worth checking out is Kohtuotsa. It provides a view over the rooftops of the Old Town. The other in the same area simply looks onto the train station – not much of a view any more!

I had lunch at a burger kiosk – these are eveywhere around the town but Johnny recommended this particular one. I should have taken a photo of the name as it’s definitely not one I’d remember! I do recall there being “ÖÖ” in the middle…

Taking his direction I also booked my ferry ticket to Helsinki for Thursday morning. It was a little more expensive than I thought, but still not bad at 497EEK (around £25) for the one-way crossing. My advice for anyone else is to book as early as possible and direct with the ferry company if you can. The travel agent’s fee wasn’t large by any account but every little helps. You do get cheaper fares booking early, though.

The best area for being a tourist and taking pictures is around the Town Hall Square (“Raekoja Plats”). The buildings here are pretty much all medieval and the restaurants on nearby Vana Turg try to theme themselves on this. Pride of them all is Olde Hansa, although it was far too expensive for me to even consider going in!

Anther interesting building I spotted was called “Kiek in de Kök”. Apparently it was the most powerful cannon tower in 16th century Northern Europe. I think it sounds more like a harsh way to disable an opponent in a fight.

Overall I spent around 3 or so hours walking around this small-ish area, just meandering and taking corners as I pleased. My feet were starting to ache and I was suffering from the lack of sleep so I decided it was time to head back to the flat, coincidentally as I got a text from Johnny saying that both he and Lena had returned.

I stopped off at a small supermarket to pick up some snacks and tried to aim for Estonian products, or at least something I’d not tried before. I ended up with some BBQ corn kernels, Estonian chocolate, a dark beer and some biscuits.

Back in the flat, I met Lena who’d prepared gazpacho soup (never tried it before, rather nice) and some 100% estonian fish and egg open sandwiches. Which is a problem as I don’t like fish… I did try, however! The fish was very salty and reminded me a little of the cod I tried when I stayed with with Jojo in Mons. We sat and chatted, I tried the beer (lovely) and munched way until bed-time. Despite “losing” two hours, I was shattered and my eyes were itching.

Overall, a hectic day and my feet still ache a little as I write this! I feel I’ve seen most of the city that I want to so tomorrow I’ll take it easy and run errands.

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Bye-bye Eire!

London Stansted Airport

Nothing much about today to report apart from that I had to leave the gorgeous West Cork and my fantastic hosts. Yes, I got that website going (as a testbed) and with any luck Joleen can get it up and going herself. Yes, I had a great time and yes I really would like to head back sometime if I’m welcome.

As ever, I’m indebted to hosts. So a huge “thank you” to the whole crowd. Everyone I met was great. Friendly, helpful, generous, full of advice, nothing ever too much trouble. If the rest of Ireland can be judged on the small town of Crosshaven then no wonder all the traditional singers miss it so much when they go abroad.

Now as I write this, I’m sat in the Waiting Area of Hell that is Stansted Airport. I bloody hate this place. Nowhere to lie down comfortably, permanently too bright, expensive “food” (and most places are shut at night anyway), overpriced internet access, no way to go to the loo without someone nicking your seat… oh, and they have construction work going on right by the waiting area so chances of sleep are pretty much zero tonight. Fan-flipping-tastic.

I’ll just have to hope I can nod off when they have a tea break and dream of those lovely hills and rivers and fields and… Zzzzzz….

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Boating and beering

I spent most of the day working on stuff for Jolene. She takes and sells photos and needs a website set up to make this as easy as possible. The least I can do in return for all the generosity she and her family (and Mike!) have shown me the last week or so.

I’ll spare you the technical details, though. But I will link to it once she’s got it online, hopefully well in advance of Cork Week.

My main sojourn out was to take another trip on the water. Jolene needed to get some snaps of the boats in the second race of the weekend. Olga drove us both down to the marina where we jumped (OK, Jolene jumped. Olga and I stepped gingerly) aboard the RIB that had been giving our sailboat some engine power the day before. Hugh had kindly loaned her it for an hour or so. Suspicious minds are convinced this is to make her more inclined to buy one of his spare ones!

So we shot out into the blue yonder. Nice and slowly at first and then bouncing off the wave-tops once we’d cleared the harbour limits. We zipped round a few of the sailing vessels as they worked their way round the course in better wind that I’d got the previous day. There was a hope we could nip further along the coast and possibly see some dolphins, but we had to double back and pick up Pat from his ship. He had to be on the pier for the first boats returning. Water-borne taxi to the rescue!

After dropping him off, we headed up the river at a more gentle pace to take in the scenery and for Jolene to have a nosey at the boats parked up along the way. There’s certainly a variety stashed up there, roped up to buoys. Some in great condition, some looking like they get taken out once in a blue moon. Definitely a nice way to waste half an hour, and it makes a change to view the town and surrounds from the water rather than from the pathways like I normally do.

We returned to the marina safe and sound and dry – but my bum hurt like I’d been on a jet-ski. There’s only one double-seat on those things and the ladies had it. I was on the boarded area at the front of the RIB and those waves hurt when they pinch the boards away from under you then return them with a *thud*. Again and again and…. ow.

I popped home for a short while to get on with more work, then Mike and I decided we were hungry. Mike after eating a huge bowl of pasta. That guy can really shovel it away! The pub was doing a BBQ so we walked down, only for me to find that it was all seafood. Ick. Mike had a piece of salmon which by all accounts was rather lovely, while I cheated and walked round to the chippy for a sausage and chips. Not too impressive – the sausage was about the size of my middle finger (but tastes nice) and the chips had no salt or vinegar! I do wish I liked seafood, but no matter what I’ve tried so far I just can’t stand the stuff.

So after a couple of pints, we walked back to the house and – yes I got on with more work. Hey, I have to pay back this hospitality somehow! Jolene’s folks had gone away for a couple of days so she and her brother stayed overnight at the pub. It really is a family business (a collection of them, in fact) and there’s always something to do.

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Avast, me hearties!

Arr! Pieces of rum and bottles of eight! Klingons off the starboard bow! I’ll bilge-haul ye, ye naval cur!

And other piratical rantings.

I lucked out a little with the dates for my visit to Ireland. My last weekend here coincided with the Crosshaven Traditional Sail event, an annual gathering of traditional sailing vessels. A couple of races are put on over the weekend, all in fun, and an excuse for people to show off their boats and their skills. Oh, and of course to get drunk and dance a lot.

Joleen suggested it would be “fun” for me to join in the racing, which is a giggle as I don’t think I’ve ever been on a sailing vessel in my life. Also, I was queasy to vomity on almost every boat I boarded in the last two years. But then, I know she’s got a cruel streak. And she was dressed as a pirate. And she had a gun which made *KKKCCCPPPWWW* noises and everything. Not to be argued with. Arr, indeed.

market stall (guarding it from everyone but myself, and the cute children who all wanted samples) she walked me over to the pier where a couple of dozen sailing vessels were moored about 6 deep. Sailors seem to be more polite than car drivers. I can’t imagine someone being particularly happy if you had to climb over their Range Rover or Peugot 205 to drop into the sun roof of your Megane in a crowded car park.

Joleen sorted me out with a crew who were short desparate generous enough to allow me to hop aboard. Me, a complete landlubber, and one with no sea legs or stable stomach. But they had beer. And head-scarves with skulls and crossbones on. And plastic swords. Who was I to argue? I’d been press-ganged. Which has to beat being keel-hauled.

We sat for about an hour waiting for the other boats to get ready, and the race to begin. This involved chatting to my skipper/captain/boat owner, his mate/friend/skurvy dog and two cabin-boys. I hate to admit that I can’t recall their names, but perhaps Joleen can enlighten me when she reads this post! I should be made to walk the plank.

Eventually, we set off under diesel power to get away from the dock and made our way up to the start buoy. Quite a crowd of boats gathered and it was some sight to see. Some vessels were more “traditional” than others, looking like they’d been carved from fallen trees only a few days before the race. One in particular, owned by a chap called Pat who I believe helps organise the race, was a beauty. The mast could have been felled that very morning, before having its branches ripped off, being varnished and screwed into the hull. Absolutely gorgeous.

Around 15 minutes later, the foghorn (referred to the in the rules as a “gun”) went off and… we kind of started to crawl forwards a bit. Now, here’s the problem. Sailing involves wind. And it wasn’t windy. This is problematical when you’re in a race but at least everyone’s in the same boat (so to speak).

Well, they are until a local photographer comes by in a RIB piloted by one of her neighbours and starts pushing random boats forward! That’d Be Joleen and Hugh (who I had dinner with on my first night in Crosshaven) trying to liven the party up. We got a shove a good few metres/yards/fathoms/whatever up the course before our ride veered off and the wind began to pick up a little.

This is where I realised that, like IT, sailing has a language of its own. I was utterly baffled by the words being slung back and forth between the skipper and the first mate. I mean, I know my port from my starboard and I now know the difference between up/down and above/below (it’s to do with the side of another object you’re guiding your boat – I think), but the rest of it… blimey. I know how people feel when I start talking about work now. All of a sudden I can sympathise with the glazed expression and the change of subject.

“Splice the gib and turn us tak-wards!”

“Hard fast the gunwal around the binnacle!”

And so on. Nautical talk is fun but pretty much incomprehensible to folk like me.

I also discovered that sailors hate motorboats. We’d just got some speed up when a motorboat went by quite a distance in front of us. However, the wash from its passing eventually reached us as a series of waves. These completely kill your speed and by the time the fourth or fifth had passed us by, we were stationary again as the wind had dropped.

Then another thing – tides. We began to drift entirely the wrong way, almost backwards, as our competitors further behind caught up due to the wind reaching them and not us. And we had to negotiate the end-point buoy by judging the difference between what forward momentum we were now getting with the cross speed we’d get if we “changed tak” and the drift of the tide.

This is why I stick to cars and computers.

We did make it, eventually, and in good time. As we really caught the wind heading back towards the start line, around 10 boats were all clamouring to get round the buoy. Some made it easily, four came round side by side like a synchronised team. And one hit the thing. Good aim.

Then… the wind… died. And this time it wasn’t in a mood to start blowing again. We sat for around 20 minutes, ate sandwiches, drank beer and finally decided to make our way in using the engine. We were one of the last to hold out in hope of some breezes but time was getting on and the pubs would be getting full.

I sat with my crewmates (remarkably with my stomach contents still right where they should be) and nattered for a while before heading back up to the house. I’m working on some web stuff for Joleen and it’s taking more time than I expected.

The evening, of course, involved beer and this time a trip down to the Anchor Inn where a barn dance was taking place. Without a barn. But with hay-bales. In the street. Which they’d just blocked off. As you do. The bar was heaving, so getting orders in wasn’t easy but the atmosphere was fantastic. There were a couple of hundred people stood in the street jigging away, tripping over hay-bales and having a right old laugh.

I sank a couple of Murphy’s and then Olga (and I’m sure I’m spelling that the wrong way) gave us a lift home. We then did the civilised thing and drank tea. And wolfed Doritos with hot chilli dip. Mmm.

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