Laser eyes

Today was the big day. We got up early and hopped in a tuk-tuk to Lumpini Park near where the clinic is located. On the way we ended up in an argument with our driver who wanted to take us via a shop where he had a “discount card” he could give us. We refused – several times – his “80 Baht, one stop” cries with responses of “80 Baht, no stops!”. He ditched us into another tuk-tuk who took us where we wanted to go for 80 Baht with no stops. We gave the driver 100 and told him to keep the change for not being a prat.

After a stroll round the park (where I got shouted at by a policeman for playing with one of the water features) we located the building containing TRSC, the people who would, with any luck, perform surgery on my eyes. Yup, I was getting my eyes lasered. Eek.

First impressions were dodgy as we got in the wrong lift and found the place through a car park. However, once inside, all worries vanished. They have beautiful offices and attentive, courteous staff. I was signed in and placed through a battery of tests from the usual “read the chart” eyesight tests and “puff of air to make you blink” ones to weird laser scanners. Finally, I was popped in front of a PC for 45 minutes to go through some informational Flash presentations that put forward all the details of LASIK surgery as well as every possible risk and side effect.

Next, I was given a slip to take to a nearby hospital for an HIV test. For them to proceed with surgery they had to be sure my immune system was top notch. HIV effectively scuppers this, so a test is mandatory and also very cheap in Thailand. The hospital we went to was just around the corner and they did the test in around two hours – long enough for us to grab some lunch while we waited. No surprise, the test came back negative and we returned to TRSC with the paper proving it.

Unfortunately, when I arrived, I was told that I was not a candidate for the surgery. My cornea is 10 microns too thin. Which sounds like an incredibly small amount, but given the scales they’re working on, I’d rather they played safe. Further tests were carried out to be sure, but the results were the same. No go.

LASIK is a fairly recent procedure (around 10 years old) and involves cutting a flap in the cornea (the coating over your pupil), flipping it to one side, lasering the inside, then popping the flap back in place. It allows for faster healing and better results. It also sounds rather yucky and everyone I know who’s had it has been freaked out by the slicing of they eyeball and the movement of the flap.

An alternative was offered – the older PRK (Photorefractive Keratectomy) procedure that preceded LASIK. This involves dissolving the cornea in front of the pupil rather than flipping it out of the way, performing the same laser procedure them popping a contact lens in front to protect the eye as the cornea re-grows. It takes longer to recover from and involves more discomfort.

But I went for it.

The doctors, nurses and admin staff were all superb. While everything felt routine, I at no point felt like I was just another patient on a conveyor belt. Comfy massage chairs to lie on as I waited for eye drops to work; doctors who explained everything before and as it happened; nurses who walked me from place to place when I couldn’t see. All superb and very calming. Despite my misgivings beforehand I can honestly say that at no single point after I said “go for it” did I feel nervous or scared. Not once. And a huge amount of the reason for this is down to the attitude and professionalism of the staff.

The actual operation was a weird experience – the first surgery I’ve ever undergone outside of my mouth. I was rolled into the theatre after having “numbing drops” placed in my eyes to ensure they could feel nothing, and popping some valium as a pre-emptive painkiller. Clamps were put in place to keep my eyelids open and sheeting put over my face to cover everything aside from the eyes. My right eye was done first. A small funnel was placed over the eye to restrict the fluid which dripped into it to the area immediately over the pupil. After a count, the cornea was dissolved and swept away using a very small spatula. Bear in mind that I could see all this, but feel nothing. It was like watching it through a window.

Once the surface was deemed clean enough, I had to stare at a little green dot while the laser warmed up then sparkly lights filled my vision. And a burning smell filled my nostrils. I’d been warned of this, but it didn’t bother me in all honesty. If you’re going for the surgery and think it might, then simply wait till they count down and breathe out slowly through your nose as the laser fires – it only lasts 10 or 20 seconds.

After that, on to the other eye. As they placed the funnel I immediately said “I can feel that” which was greeted by surprised voices. I just blast through painkillers and anaesthetics quite quickly. I don’t know why, but it’s the same when I have fillings at the dentist. They applied more drops, waited a while then tried again. All fine, and the procedure was the same as the other eye.

Each eye had a contact lense placed on it. This would prevent dust etc entering and causing any infection. They’d have to remain in place for 4 days. All done, I was taken outside to lie for a while before having my eyes covered with plastic “bug eye” devices which were taped in place. These were to restrict the amount of light entering my eyes, but still allow me to see. Sort of.

This was where Leah was to be an absolute godsend. I couldn’t see too well. At times, I couldn’t see at all. She was my “guide dog” for want of a better phrase, guiding me everywhere and making sure I didn’t… well… die. Or cause a major accident by slipping off a kerb into traffic. Little things like that. Armed with a bag filled with drugs and eye drops (and drugs in eye drops), we departed.

What else better to do after having lasers scorching your eyes than grab a beer? I felt I’d earned it, so we went to the Bull’s Head. Billy was there and it’s always nice to see a friendly face. A shame I could only just make his out. We munched on the gorgeous double-fried beef strips and had a couple of Strongbows. A mate of Billy’s bought us a round simply because I “had the balls to come out in public wearing those things on your face”. Score.

Well, it’s not like I could see if anyone stared at me. As it happens, Leah told me, apart from children, none of the Thais we passed gave me a second glance. Only westerners ogled at the bug-eyed freak.

We got back to the hotel fairly late on, and I opted not to take the sleeping pills or valium. I felt OK, the eyes weren’t bothering me too much, and I was tired after the beer. I had a quick sponge down (I couldn’t shower or wash may hair until the contacts were removed) and collapsed into a deep sleep. Either the beer or the stress I hadn’t realised I’d undergone caught up.

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Arrival in Bangkok. Again!

Our flight arrived dot on time and Leah started to perspire the moment we hit open, humid air. Hot weather is not her strong point! Immigration was a breeze and once we’d grabbed our bags it was a matter of deciding how to get into Bangkok proper. The BTS link is not complete yet (due to be finished next year and it’ll make the journey incredibly quick and cheap), so the options are meter taxi, limousine or airport bus. The bus had gone up to 150 Baht from 100 Baht with the new airport being further out of the city. A meter taxi is far quicker and not that much more expensive (traffic conditions dependent) so we went that route.

Within half an hour or so and less than 400 Baht lighter we arrived at the Indra Regent. We’d picked somewhere nice for the first couple of nights because it’s Leah’s holiday. And I liked the excuse to have somewhere posh for once. The room was nice, the staff polite, everything sparkly but (as expected) with no free internet. What is it with posh hotels that they can’t give you something like that for free, whereas the cheapest hostels seem to?

It was early evening by the time we settled in and unpacked. Outside the hotel we hopped in a tuk-tuk to a place around the corner (it was chucking it down, so walking wasn’t an option). It wasn’t cheap, but the setting was nice and the food was pretty good. After a beer and some chow, we dodged the drizzle and got a BTS to the Paragon centre where we picked up tickets for Wanted. Not a bad little film. If you switch your brain off and just watch the pretty colours.

We had a fairly early night as I had quite an important appointment the next morning.

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Leaving London

Again, not a whole lot to report. But I always say that then waffle on, so here we go.

We got up early enough to thank Andy for his hospitality and have a quick chat with Heledd who was also staying with him. I’d met her once before in Cardiff and I still think she could make a fortune working as a reader of audio books. Or on certain types of phone line. She has possibly the sexiest voice I’ve ever heard!

We packed, checked, double-checked then walked down the road to the tube station. Next to Goldhawk Road tube is a little café. If memory serves, it’s called “Sylvia’s” and is run by a woman – surprise – called Sylvia. And it’s great. The full breakfast I had was superb, Sylvia herself was a wonderful lady and the price was very reasonable indeed. Full, we made our way onto the tube (eventually, as my Oyster Card didn’t have enough credit which I find hard to believe – I think I got screwed) and, via Hammersmith, tunnelled our way to Heathrow. I managed to brain someone with my sleeping bag on the crowded carriage, but every time I turned round to apologise I hit him again. So on the off-chance, if that was you – sorry!

We arrived in good time, and a lot better off financially than if we’d taken the ridiculously expensive Heathrow Express train – and chilled in the departure lounge after going through the usual battery of security questions, scans, footwear removal, further scans… It’s getting so tedious to go through a European airport these days. Finally, boarding time arrived and we filed onto our jet which was to carry us for around 13 hours.

Disappointing from Thai Royal Airlines – no personal TVs and old seats. All I can assume is that this was a “loaner” while one of their decent aircraft was in for a refurb as it really wasn’t suitable for a long-haul flight. Compared to the EVA craft I had on my first voyage, this was a cargo plane. Not impressed. At least this was an overnight flight, so I spent a fair bit of it snoozing, but I’d still have liked the chance to watch a film or learn some Thai. The staff and food were good, though. A brandy after dinner helped me drift off quite satisfactorily.

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Rock God Hits London

Just a short post. I sorted out a cheap bus ticket down to London – see the related tip post on how to get these – and decided to walk into Cambridge from Colin’s to catch it. I’m glad I left in good time as I only just made it 10 minutes before departure! On the way I passed some kids being walked to school, probably just after lunch. I was expecting to either be ignored or get a load of cheek. Instead I got “Why are you carrying so much?”

So I answered that I was travelling and I carried everything I needed. Using a backpack is easier than a suitcase. Then they asked me where I was going. And why. And what makes it so different. So I told them. And we had a good natter for ten minutes until they reached the school gates.

Sometimes – just sometimes – I have a little faith in the youth of the UK. Today was one of those days.

The bus journey was fairly uneventful, and I hopped out ahead of my end point at Stratford. Picking up an Oyster card with a fiver on it (works out much cheaper than paying single tickets) I hopped onto a Central Line train down to Liverpool Street where I waited to meet Sarah. The last time I saw her, I’d been showing her around York and it’s always nice to catch up with a familar face, especially one belonging to a Kiwi who’s so much fun!

As we’d done the second time I met her, we walked over to Brick Lane (me laden with backpacks) for a curry. We got a “free bottle of wine” with the meal, then discovered why when we tried to order a second – they have no alcohol license so have to give it away! If we wanted more, we were told just to pop round the corner, buy a bottle and bring it in.

Instead, we shambled over to a bar and sank two or three more bottles in a nice, quiet boozer and nattered until Sarah was in danger of missing her last train. I walked her to London Bridge then made my way to Andy’s. Nice guy had stayed up waiting for me to make sure I got in OK. Star! Another night on a comfy bed. Joy.

The following day I chilled out, caught up with blog posts (not well enough given that I’m posting this one on July 24th…), read feeds, answered emails and became addicted to Guitar Hero. Damn you, Andy, for leaving all the kit lying around. In between bouts I managed to squeeze in a quick lunch after walking into Hammersmith, where I also picked up a couple of Sherlock Holmes books for a few quid.

Later that afternoon, Leah arrived at King’s Cross and I was there to meet her and ferry her things back to Andy’s. Another use of the Oyster Card and I’m sure on this or the next trip it screwed me. Hard to prove, though, especially when we were somewhat rushed with our flight to Bangkok being the next day!

We waited for Andy to finish work before meeting him for dinner in a local Irish bar. We were late and it was my fault as I just had to have “just one more go” on Guitar Hero. Mind, I did manage to get a perfect run on Kiss’ Rock And Roll All Night. Not bad for a beginner. On “easy”.

After dinner, it was really just a matter of Leah and I making sure we were all packed with no last-minute panics for the next day. Bookings were checked, toothbrushes inspected and ponderings made over milk cancellations. Then we realised that neither of us had milk delivered. Which was good and allowed us to sleep soundly.

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Tip: cheap bus tickets (UK)

I just booked a ticket through National Express and spotted a way to get cheaper tickets (half price or less) depending on where you’re going. They currently offer what they call “funfare” prices on certain routes. The one I looked at was Cambridge to London. However, it’s quicker to get a bus to Stratford (halfway roughly) then then catch a tube the rest of the way.

However, Cambridge to London qualifies for a funfare ticket from £4 to £6 (normally £10 upwards). Cambridge to Stratford is £10.30 with no cheap options. What’s important, though, is that you can purchase the longer distance ticket – for less money – and hop off the bus early. This is allowed by the terms and conditions as long as you tell the driver when boarding to ensure your luggage is stowed conveniently.

So when booking a National Express ticket, if you’re planning to disembark partway along a major route then you should check the price for the full route and see if it’s cheaper than the segment you’re doing.

This correct at time of writing. I’m sure their offers change all the time.

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