Victoria to New South Wales

The hostest with the mostest

The hostest with the mostest

A fair bit to cover as it’s been five days since my last update but I’ll try to rattle through everything. First of all, I have to give a huge thanks to everyone in Melbourne – Amy, her sister and housemate for putting me up the first night on short notice; Shelly, Reina, Julia and Henry for the other nights; and Ben for being great company as usual.

So I set off from Shelly’s place at around 5:30 on Thursday morning. The tram systam starts very early so I caught that down to Parliament station and then a train to Fawkner station. This was all within Zone 1 so only cost a little over $3 and got me out on the old Sydney Road. Here, I stopped by a large bus stop and stuck out the old cardboard sign.

After I was moved on by the police (they were very nice – simply telling me that the building on the corner was a police station so nobody would stop there… and that I’d have better luck a couple of hundred metres up the road) I was picked up by a very nice chap in a recovery truck. He had two dogs – one which just wouldn’t stop licking me, and a very cute little white thing that sat up and begged constantly.

He left me where the M1 split in two and after half an hour or so, a Vietnam war veteran (navy) gave me a lift about 200km up the road. From there I got a lift to a junction near a truck stop and after quite a wait my luck finally turned for the better.

Wow. Blue.

Wow. Blue.

The chap that picked me up (Benny, if I remember correctly) was only going as far as the Wagga Wagga turnoff. However, his mates behind me were heading as far east as Moss Vale. This is very close to where Vesna lives and a long drive – around 4 hours. However, there was a delay. One of the chaps was buying a boat the next day and needed to withdraw cash from a bank. The nearest was in Wagga Wagga itself, something they only twigged after we’d been heading east for 45 minutes.

This meant doubling back. Along country roads. On a strict time limit as the bank would shut soon. While the guys necked suds (as did I – they gave me three beers while we were travelling). Needless to say, I don’t think I’ve been on any more of a white knuckle ride than this drive. The good news is that they made it in time to get the cash.

Quite late on, and after a couple of pit-stops, we arrived at Moss Vale where the guys dropped off one very grateful hitch-hiker. A truck driver took me to the outskirts of town and then Ves very kindly drove out to get me. I was “close” to her place. In Aussie terms, this meant only about an hour each way.

Their pastry is fresher

Their pastry is fresher

After a sleep that I really needed, I was up in Sydney the next day. I got up by train as the service is frequent and cheap enough that hitching just wasn’t really needed. I’d only popped up to see Sarah and Alan and I met them in the evening at Darling Harbour.

We sat for a good couple of hours in the Strike Bowling Bar on the Harbour front and just chatted away. I had a really good time putting real faces and bodies to people I’d chatted to online as is usually the case and I thank them for taking the time to pop into Sydney. Hopefully, I’ll catch up with them again on another visit!

Afterwards, I just kicked around at the bar. I’d not booked a hostel and was toying with just crashing at a train station. I got talking to the two bouncers who were on duty – a British Indian guy (Jeff) and another from Vanuatu (Kalo). Their work ethic put just about everyone else I’ve ever known to shame with each having at least two jobs.

There was no trouble all night, and the guys were more than happy to talk away as they welcomed patrons in and wished them well as they left. I was tempted with one invite from a group who were heading off to a club somewhere, but I didn’t fancy forking out $30 to listen to music I hate at ear-splitting volume. Music I like at ear-splitting volume is fine.

Classic cinema

Classic cinema

Instead, I loafed and found myself helping close up the club. I got myself a couple of free drinks, shared a burger and chips and was dropped off a few train stations down the line south of Sydney. I crashed on a bench, but this saved me a few bucks on the fare back to Vesna’s in the morning.

Saturday and Sunday were a complete chill-out. Marg, Rod, Chris and Janine came over for a barbequeue on the former, and the kids returned from their cousin’s on the Sunday. The rest of the time we justy kicked back and chilled. I finished two books – something I’ve not done in such a time frame since I was in India with Hans.

Today, Mike (Ves’s partner) took me over to Huskisson where I wandered around for a few hours while he was at work. It’s a lovely little seaside place with some beautiful beaches, a cute little cinema and an awesome bakery. Try their cheese and bacon sausage roll if you’re passing through.

So I’ve had a great couple of days here, thanks in no small part to my excellent hosts. Ves and Mike (and Emma and James) – thank you very much indeed! My next stop will be Newcastle tomorrow. Marg and Rod have offered to put me up for the night to break up my trip to Brisbane into manageable slices.

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Last day in Melbourne

The main building housing the Shrine

The main building housing the Shrine

I aimed to chill out today and I pretty much did. I set off at midday to meet Ben for lunch. Then turned round after 200m when my bike chain snapped. I grabbed the spare bike from the back yard, washed the oil off my hands and then realised that the spare bike’s back tyre was flat.

Finally, I got going and we went to somewhere called Funky Curry or Funny Curry on Bourke Street. They had a special on as it’s an Indian holiday (the Festival of Colours, apparently) so all the meals were $2 off. Bargain. I paid this time, so we’re all even on the lunches. Though I do recall that Ben paid for the world’s largest lasagne last time I stayed with him.

The eternal flame

The eternal flame

As I’d promised myself I found somewhere nice to sit and read my book – down at the Queen Victoria Park. The sun shone, traffic whooshed past in the distance and two hot bikini-clad girls covered each other in suncream nearby. I delighted in texting Ben and Muddy with this information.

The sun’s strong down here, so I didn’t want to sit in it too long. Instead, after an hour or so, I packed up and cycled south a little further to the excellent war memorial and shrine. An hour was spent walking around here before I popped back on the bike and returned to Shelly’s.

Inside the War Memorial in Melbourne

Inside the War Memorial in Melbourne

No plans for this evening, so no need to blog about them. Just kick back, maybe grab a beer or two from the bottle shop and make sure I get plenty of sleep. It’s an early start tomorrow.

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Watching Watchmen

Coats of arms

Coats of arms

I joined the hordes today and watched the new Watchmen film on IMAX. It was OK, but would have been fine on a “normal” cinema screen and at the corresponding lower price. Mind you, the IMAX here in Melbourne‘s not that much more expensive than a regular cinema ticket. In the queue I got talking to a random local called Andy who was good company until the film started. This is pretty typical of the open attitude that people around here have – they always seem ready to chat and share a beer. Or a popcorn.

My touristy day actually started when I met Ben for lunch. He took me to a restaurant at one end of the Chinatown precinct where we had dumplings (dim sum). They were pretty tasty, and not bad at around $7 for a dozen of the beef or pork ones. He picked up the tab for lunch as his work colleagues dropped in so I’ve promised to meet him again tomorrow so I can pay for his in return.

From there I cycled round the corner to the Town Hall where I’d booked a tour. They do two each weekday, 11am and 1pm, at no cost but it’s worth pre-booking. The 11am one today was booked out, but I got onto the afternoon one with a small group. If you’re interested then give them a call on 96589658.

Seat of power

Seat of power

A spritely guy called Ray took us around for well over the quoted one hour and was full of nice touristy trivia. We got a potted history of Melbourne itself as well as a bit of information on how the mayoral system works. One interesting thing us that Melbourne could have been named Batmania (!), but that the decision was made to name it after the then-Prime Minister of the UK. Or actually after the place he lived and was Viscount of – Melbourne in Derbyshire. However, he never even set foot in Australia let alone the city named for him. Do check out the Wikipedia link above. As with all fairly modern cities, its history is both interesting and well-documented.

We saw some interesting rooms including the council chambers which are available to functions for a “very nominal fee”. They’ve been used for society meetings, weddings and film sets. Of course, all the wood is Australian. The majority seems to have been carted over from Tasmania.

The function room where the mayor hosts important guests is quite posh ut does look a little out of touch with the times. With my limited furniture vocabulary, I’d class it as Tudor. Still, being able to picture Paul McCartney playing Chopin on the piano, while Ringo walked around in the mayoral robes and John and George threw boomerangs to a screaming crowd outside does give it a different edge!

What a wopper

What a wopper

Ray’s enthusiasm, however, really came out when he showed us the enormous organ housed in one wing. It’s the largest organ in the southern hemisphere (fnar-fnar) with 8700 pipes. Once they have the repeater (I think that was the term) installed, this will rise to 10,000. It really is a magnificent piece of engineering, a lot of it American work. Some years ago flooding caused the roof of the building to collapse, severely damaging the organ along with a lot of the offices. The pipework was dismantled and shipped to a company in the US who’d won the contract to repair it.

Currently, it’s insured for $AU20million, but this – apparently – would barely cover the cost of replacing it. We managed to get a walk around the scenes behind the (and in fact, inside) the organ and listened to a pre-recorded piece of Bach. There are free recitals now and again, so if you’re into organ music then do check it out if you’re in town. You could get lucky.

After thanking Ray, I went up to the IMAX cinema to see Watchmen and as soon as that finished (2 hour 40 minutes later) I pedalled down to Richmond to meet Jacqueline of six impossible things fame. She’d contacted me over the weekend when she spotted I was in Melbourne – I didn’t even realise this was where she lived!

Pipes galore

Pipes galore

As it always is, it was great to meet up with someone I’ve nattered to online for ages. She’s actually a Kiwi, but don’t hold that against her! A shame we only had about an hour or so to chat before she had to dash off – maybe longer next time! Oh, and don’t call her Jackie…

Then back home with a quick stop at the Kiwi Fish & Chips on Victoria Parade. Which wasn’t very good. The chips were crispy, not soggy, and the sausage I had was kind of… ick. And they didn’t have vinegar. Still, it was a filling meal for a shade under $9 and I needed something by then.

And that was about it. Tomorrow is my lazy day before the Big Hitch to Wollongong.

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Free bike!

Typically cloudy

Typically cloudy

I’m really starting to “get” Melbourne. The last time I was here, I was pretty much in a very depressed state – those who’ve followed the blog since it started will be fully aware of why. So even though I did a fair bit, I just didn’t get a feel for the city.

This time round, I’ve ditched most of the touristy nonsense and just hung out. As a result, I’m really beginning to see why people like this place.

On Sunday, walking down the street for breakfast, Shelly and I found a bike leaning against a shop front with a sign on it: “Please take me. I’m free but my tyres are terrible”. So I took it. And the tyres were fine. The rear one, if you take it off the wheel, does seem ever so slightly mis-shapen but I’ve been riding it for three days with no problems so I can’t complain. It even had a helmet hanging from the handlebars, which is handy as helmets are mandatory in Victoria.

So, what have I done that’s warmed me to Melbourne? Well, we had breakfast one morning in Retro on Brunswick Street – a very nice home-made muesli with fruit compote and at a pretty reasonable price. I’ve chilled, snoozed and read a book by the side of the Yarra River as waterskiiers whizzed past. I’ve cycled part of the Capital City trail around the outskirts (it needs better signposting or actual maps).

Darth Vader? Nice chap

Darth Vader? Nice chap

Monday was a public holiday here, and the end of the Moomba Waterfest. Essentially a 3-day carnival which takes place aorund the back of Federation Square on the riverside. There’s a lot of free entertainment running from early morning until around 11pm. It culminates with a parade on the Monday which I managed to catch most of. If nothing else, it shows off how multicultural Melbourne it. There were floats and marching groups from organisations as wide-ranging as the Japanese Club of Victoria, a belly-dancing school, cheerleaders (drool), anti-racism groups, the Australian Red Cross, and AusTrek – the Aussie Star Trek fan club (as well as the Star Wars club and the Doctor Who club). And cheerleaders. Did I mention the cheerleaders?

This thing was huge

This thing was huge

I’ve found the staff at the tourist information on Fed Square to be really helpful, too. It’s one of the busiest tourist info places I think I’ve ever been and they all seem to know everything. The girl who helped me with the cycle trail has done it herself umpteen times so knew how to spot some of the more awkwardly-signed junctions. A shame I only had time to do around a third of the trail, but what I saw was great.

Melbourne caters very well to the cyclist. Even those on cheap-ass free bikes the found on the street. All the roads have cycle lanes, signposting refers to them constantly and the trails outside the city are excellent. The Monash Freeway Citylink – a toll road which leads east out of the city – even has a bike track suspended beneath it. Fully paved, safety rails either side. And three climbing walls built into the motorway’s support structure which were all in good use when I went past.

Just a short cycle takes you to parks, gardens, a petting zoo, a farmer’s market, a skate park, far too many cricket grounds (I hate cricket). And this is just the one trail I part-followed along the river. This is where I was really blown away by Melbourne. By what’s just there, right on your doorstep.

Located <em>under</em> an expressway

Located under an expressway

Last time I was here was the AFL Grand Final. And that’s next weekend, so I guess that means it’s two whole years. Wow. My last host here was Ben who I met in Vietnam. Well, I caught up with him for drinks on Sunday evening not far from where I’m staying and it was great to see him again. What was supposed to be “a quick pint” turned into “a session” at the very nice Bar Nancy on the High Street in Northcote. Definitely a little place worth checking out. They have around 15 beers (Aussie and international) in a chilly fridge and some great rooms, plus a beer garden. I can just see the open fires roaring away in winter!

As to Ben – good luck in the UK later this year, fella. I genuinely don’t understand why you’d want to move there from Oz but if I’m home at some point I’d be more than happy to show you around!

The tyres were fine

The tyres were fine

So I have another two days here before I hitch to Wollongong. One (today) will be a little busy as I catch up with more people. The second is either going to be a lot of cycling, or a complete chill-out. It depends on the weather. Which is one thing I’ve learned that you can’t depend on in Melbourne!

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Adelaide then Melbourne

Another quick roundup as I’ve not done a lot of touristy stuff, just hung out and travelled.

I ended up going for the redeye flight from Perth to Adelaide. Mel very kindly dropped me off at Perth International Airport. Then realised this wasn’t much use as I was flying domestically and even more kindly drove me the extra ten minutes to the Domestic Airport. Thanks, Mel!

It had been a good, smooth flight with Tiger Airways. We even took off late as there was a tailwind. The flight time was reduced and we were dot on time for landing. Craig (Mudcrab) picked me up at a little after 7am after I landed in Adelaide. He dropped me at his place where I caught up first on email and then on sleep.

Dinner was from the Adelaide Burger bar on O’Connell Street. This is heartily recommended. The chips are slight crispy, but I don’t know what they put in the batter. Whatever it is it tastes delicious. This was followed up by an exceptionally good slice of fruit crumble from the 24 hour bakery over the road.

Our home for the evening was to be the Crown & Anchor (if I remember correctly) where we chewed various amounts of fat and drank far too much and until far too late. Or early. They really don’t do “chucking out time” here.

Thursday was a bit of a blur until Craig came home. Just about recovered, we went to the Grace to see about 5 local bands each doing a short set. The final act, Raw Ether, were playing their last set for several months. The bassist is heading to Germany for some reason I didn’t quite pick up. All three members are 19 years old and annoyingly talented. Great set, and thanks for the free CD!

As the pub closed we relocated back to the Crown & Anchor until they did actually throw us out. A steak and pepper pie and a cake from the bakers on the way home and we crashed out around 5am. No worries. 2½ hours sleep would do us fine for the next day…

Only we had nearer 4½ hours. Craig was late for work and I was late to start hitching to Melbourne. However, Craig got me to the outskirts just before the M1 route begins and set me down around 10:00 for my trek to Victoria.

Almost 45 minutes later I got my first lift off a lady heading just outside of Adelaide to see a relative. A 20 minute drive, but it was a start. Next up – after 30 minutes – were two guys finishing work for the day. They both had beards as good as mine! They dropped me off after around half an hour with instructions on how to get to a really good truck stop if I was struggling.

Maybe 15 minutes later, I was picked up by Geraldine and her two dogs. They kept me company for 4½ hours as we stopped for a beer and headed deep into Victoria. 300km to go and I was picked up by Rick, a truck driver heading back east in his 4×4. He left me around 2 hours’ outside of Melbourne at a roadside café. I’d barely put my bags down when Jason, a young IT guy who works for a large financial company, picked me up and dropped me off right near Shelly’s place. Almost 12 hours to the dot since Craig left me in Adelaide.

However, by this time Shelly had caught a tram into the CBD. Cue a farcicle attempt to locate each other which we finally did. We had a quick meal (it was after 11pm by now) in Red Pepper on Bourke Street. This was amazing – only $5 for a small but filling and very spicy dahl dish with two nan bread. Just about the right amount for me at that moment.

We sat and talked for about an hour until Amy and her sister Emma picked me up to take me to their place where I’m typing this up now. The two girls are Vietnamese and if I remember correctly I got talking to Amy as she’s also a big sponsor of the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation in Hanoi.

So now to bed. I have a couple of plans for tomorrow (after sleeping very heavily) and then will be meeting up with Shelly, Amy and her boyfriend for a couple of drinks (oh, no…).

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