Wellington

Our last day on the North Island and half of it was spent in cybercafes changing plans. Lou had received a phone call from her cousin in Thailand asking her if she could do some work for 3 days. In Qatar. At the start of June.

Lou required money, Joy required a favour and as a result we required some nice people at Backpacker Campervan Rentals and Singapore Airlines. By Jove, we got them. Van hire and my flights back to Hanoi both changed, in minutes, at no cost. Wow.

Flights from Christchurch to Auckland and back (and back up again after we dropped the van off) all booked for pretty low prices as well.

The dates worked out OK as it means we won’t be imposing on Pam and Rob’s hospitality for longer than previously arranged. Plus there’s mroe chance of snow in the south island by the time we return so better snowboarding!

Once we got all that lot sorted, we headed for the Te Papa museum. As well as their usual exhibits on Maori and imigrant history, geology and the like they were hosting a second appearance of the Lord of the Rings movie exhibition. The museum itself is free, while this was an NZ$12 fee (reduced to NZ$10 with my YHA card – paid for itself many times over already!). Definitely worth the time and the money if you liked the film.

It’s a simple exhibit with a display stand for each major character and race, plus a couple for some of the set pieces and effects. The walls are hung with examples of concept art and each stand has a tv with a handful of short films you can choose from to view about the exhibit. I’m sure the films are on the extended DVDs but it’s fascinating to watch them next to the actual props they’re describing.

Sadly, no photos are allowed inside the museum so I can only tell you how impressive it all was. I’m not mad into costumes, but the silicone model of Sean Bean as Boromir lying in his funeral boat was incredibly lifelike. I almost expected him to jump out and berate me for wearing a Newcastle shirt instead of a Sheffield United one.

Also taking the breath away were the handcrafted models of Minas Tirith and Sauron’s Tower. I really wish I could have taken pictures of these. Oh, and the enormous cave troll bursting through the wooden doors.

OK, so it was touristy and not much to do with New Zealand but it was a very enjoyable hour or so wandering around. We didn’t have much time to plough round the rest of the museum, but what we did see was very good indeed. Many of the exhibits are accompanied by “hands-on” touch-screen TV games and activites for kids (and even separate rooms set out purely for them) making it ideal for families and school classes. Indeed, there were at least two classes of schoolkids there at the same time as us.

Wellington is also home to the most “with-it” tramp I have seen. A drunken old guy, collapsed in a shop doorway, beard down to his knees and an iPod in his left hand, held high as he bopped away. What he was dancing to, I’ll never know. He had a cheesy grin on his face (I think – there was a lot of hair there) so I assume it was something cheerful. If it turned out to be a nazi death march album, I’d have been somewhat concerned.

Our “sightseeing” done, we walked back to the hotel for dinner. Wednesday nights are quite cheap at the Cambridge. If you spend more than NZ$5 per head on booze (buy a jug of beer and you’re there), you get a voucher for the barbequeue. So dinner for two, including silly amounts of Speights, cost us around NZ$15. A fiver. For two people.

A pub quiz followed at 8:00, but required teams of 4 people and we were friendless. Instead, we took the less sociable (and probably cheaper due to lack of bar) option of visiting the cinema and seeing X-Men 3.

With the early rise required for our ferry the next morning, we packed as soon as we got back and crashed out. Alarms set for 6:30am.

And here’s me thinking holidays were relaxing.

120mph… without a motor

This morning began gently enough with a stroll along what passes for a beach in Taupo. In fairness, it it a lake that we’re next to (the largest in New Zealand) and not the sea so it can be forgiven for not having miles of golden sands. We had breakfast at a lovely café (I had beans on toast – I’m really making up for the weeks in Asia without them) and bought packed sandwiches for lunch.

On the walk we encountered two particularly New Zealand examples of wildlife. The first was the “friendly domestic cat”. Unlike the UK where cats routinely have stones thrown at them by pathetic teenagers, the ones here always seem to love people. They also all seem to be built like little furry brick outhouses. This one was also unusual in that she was pure white from top to tail, and followed us for a good hundred yards, collapsing on the pavement at regular intervals to have her belly rubbed.

The second animal was the Tui – one of the national birds, alongside the Kiwi. The Tui is like a small blackbird with white puffs under each eye and the most bizarre song I’ve ever heard. It’s like someone’s got R2D2 drunk (possibly on the bird’s own-brand beer). It’s also akin to those annoying car alarms that rattle off umpteen different klaxon one after the other. Tweettweetwibblewibblebeepbeephoothootfaaaarrrrrt.

Now for reasons which will become clear very shortly, I’d spent the night praying for thunderstorms today. Anything involving massive cloud cover and the inability for aircraft to take off. Instead, I was lumbered with bright sunshine and clear skies. Further proof of the non-existance of god, or at least that he/she/it/them really has it in for me.

I didn’t want nice skies because I’d booked a sky dive for just after lunch and was looking for any excuse to get out of it. It turns out that Taupo’s about the cheapest place ever if you want a one-way trip in an aeroplane (i.e. up and not bothering with the landing bit). Lou had done a jump at Lake Waneka as she’d been told it was cheaper than Queenstown. Taupo was around 1/2 to 2/3 of the price, and included a t-shirt in one of the best packages.

At 12:30, I called the company (Taupo Tandem Skydiving) who inevitably confirmed that the skies were perfect and that my jump was on. My cunning ploy of taking a different road and therefore missing the airport failed – there’s only one road south out of Taupo and it goes past the damn thing. So we ended up there, signing things that said “It’s very difficult to sue anyone in New Zealand so if you die you’re pretty much stuffed”.

Good news is that on the weigh-in I found out I’m back to 75kg. By the time we took off, I think I’d been to the loo three times and I was nearer 70kg. I thought I looked rather natty in my jumpsuit, and it hid the stench (and stains) of panic rather well. We watched a safety video which made everything look so easy, got strapped into something that looked majorly kinky and wasn’t the least bit comfortable, and stood around like lemons for an hour waiting for our flight to arrive. It felt like five minutes.

Ever wondered what the condemned man feels like, walking to the gallows? Well, remove the safety harness and funky jumpsuit and that’s pretty much what was going through my mind. Patrik was my “buddy” for the jump and would have to put up with me strapped to his chest, screaming like a loon for about 45 seconds. I hoped he could cope without getting sick of me and letting go.

I’d opted for the 12,000 foot jump. The other alternative is 15,000 feet but I’d been told you need oxygen masks for the extra height and therefore my face would be obscured on any photos. Turns out this isn’t actually the case, but it’s too late now. We loaded up in the plane sat along two padded benches, backs pressed against our experienced (so we were told) skydivers and the door rolled shut. The propeller kicked in and the plane began to roll. Backwards. Well, actually, it didn’t. I just thought it had as I’ve never been facing the tail of a plane as it’s taken off before.

Patrik was superb. He explained everything on the way up; roughly how long each section of the procedure would take, what to expect, how to position myself and so on. Every couple of thousand feet he gave me an update and a reminder, prompting me to put on my helmet and goggles as we neared the 12,000 mark.

All of a sudden, the door opened. And hit me on the head. Great start. Thankfully only a glancing blow as it was a rolling door, not the usual huge airlock things you get on airliners. The first pair shuffled forwards they’re mad! to the edge of the doorway they can’t do that! It’s nuts! looked at the departure camera for a quick photo and vanished where’s the ground? They’re going to die!

Then it was my turn. I think at this point, my brain found somewhere safe to nestle near the pit of my stomach (itself relocating just underneath my Adam’s apple). Patrik shuffled us forward and I had no choice, damning the lack of friction on the seats, until I was perched on the ledge, feet dangling in the slipstream. Another nutcase in a yellow suit was stood to my left on the outside of the aeroplane filming my last minutes on this mortal coil.

I stared at the camera.

I tried to look cool.

I failed dismally.

The camera flashed.

We leapt.

For those who didn’t do physics, some figures for you. A falling object accelerates at 9.8 metres per second per second (or roughly 35km per hour per second) until reaching terminal velocity, at which point it’s going as fast as it possibly can within the Earth’s atmosphere. This terminal velocity is around 200km/h or 120mph. So essentially within 6 seconds of leaving that plane, I was going almost as fast as I’ve ever driven in a car. Only downwards. Strapped to a Swede with a silly beard.

Funnily enough, these numbers weren’t whizzing through my head as we sped earthwards.

The most coherent thought was “Best hundred pounds I have ever spent in my life.”

Once past the initial cries to every deity I’d ever heard of, the sheer rush blew every cobweb out of my system and opened all my senses to the utter madness of what was happening. It’s difficult to comprehend the speed you’re hurtling earthwards at as you have no point of reference. There are no crash barriers blurring to your sides, or anything in front for you to hurtle towards except the big green sphere which is so far away you can’t really tell that it’s getting closer.

All you can get your head around is the wind rushing past and the unutterably mind-boggling sense of speed. During all this, Patric was spinning me round in circles while the madman with the camera was lying on his back, capturing every expletive and whoop of joy as I hurtled towards the ground like a dragonfly playing chicken with a truck windscreen.

However, I had one up on the dragonfly. A Swede who proved to be slightly less insane than he had so far appeared by releasing a parachute at 3000 feet (or was it 5000? I confess I frankly didn’t give a hoot at the time) to slow our descent. The jerk was sudden but gentle, and Patric loosened a couple of the harness straps for me so we didn’t become too intimate on the float downwards.

We swooped, we whirled, dived and pirouetted. The view was utterly beautiful. I have never seen the earth from that angle before and it’s astounding how much you appreciate it with no aeroplane window between you and it. Then all too soon (except for my legs which were getting pins and needles) got to say “hello” to the grass again with the smoothest of landings.

I cannot remember ever having such a huge grin on my face. It took me two days to brush all the flies out of my teeth.

Back at the hangar, we checked out our exit photos and I declined mine as, frankly, I looked a prat on it. The video, though, is superb and will be treasured. Sadly, the CD full of photos I got was the wrong one (I’ve got 30 pictures of a very scared looking Irish girl instead) so I’m waiting for the correct one to be posted to me.

Bag of goodies in hand and donning my new t-shirt (“unbelievable the experience of a lifetime you have GOT to do it tandem skydiving in lake taupo new zealand i jumped out of that plane WHOAH!! AWESOME, what a rush”) immediately, I leapt heroically like a man reborn in to our crappy little car. Then sat and ate BLT sarnies.

Hey, I’m just a bloke at heart.

The rest of the day was just driving to Wellington (5 hours) then getting dinner in a Chinese for approximately nothing each. I won’t bore you. It all sucked compared to the skydive anyway.

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Zemanta Pixie

Luges and golf balls

 We had to check out at 10am (which seems to be standard across NZ) and for once we made it. Breakfast was going to be nice, healthy muesli but seeing as nobody at the KiwiPaka wanted to serve us we headed off for the Skyline Skyway.

A NZ$20 cable car ride up the hill (it’s not big enough by local standards to be a mountain) got us up to a nice viewpoint with somewhere to eat – toasties all round. We bought three tickets for the luge and the heavens opened. Again.

Just round the corner was a little shooting gallery at NZ$6 a pop. Great way to blow a few minutes and long enough for a blue spot to appear in the clouds. As luck would have it, the “scenic” route was closed for maintenance so we had to start on the intermediate. Usually, as a rule, you have to have your first go of the day on the easy one. We used two of our tickets and (after digging for 10 minutes to find a pair of helmets that fitted) prepared to fling ourselves down a concrete track on flimsy pieces of wheeled plastic.

 We then flung ourselves down a concrete track on flimsy pieces of wheeled plastic. And it was fun! The luges are like sledges with wheels underneath and a scooter handle at the front. You sit in them and move the handle back (brake, or more accurately “slow down almost impreceptibly”), middle (neutral i.e. “go”) and forward (park or “pitch forward and break your nose” depending on how fast you’re going when you do it).

The tracks are very much fun with some nice scenery as you go down. OK, I wasn’t paying much attention to the scenery, more on how slippy the concrete was after the recent downpour.

Amazingly, we both made it to the bottom unscathed although Lou did seem to take slightly longer than me. In fairness, I’m slightly more mad and she had the benefit of experience in that she’d been scared witless doing the same track a month earlier. By far the worst bit was the open chair-car ride back up when the rain started, the wind picked up and some muppet seemed to get stuck at the bottom causing us to swing in the icy gale for 5 minutes partway up. Next stop – the toilet, to make full use of the hot-air blowers to defrost our fingers and dry our clothes.

 I used the final ticket for a go on the advanced course… and it’s definitely a step up from the intermediate. At one point the course is a definite 1:2 gradient and you pick up speed at an amazing pace. There’s no point in pulling the stick back to brake. At those speeds the braking mechanism would melt.

Annoyingly, it wasn’t until the cable car dropped us off at the bottom that I remembered I wanted to pick up a certificate from the gifty shop. I wasn’t about to pay 20 bucks to get up there to buy one so I guess I’ll have to wait till next time.

Next door to the Skyway is a very pleasant 18-hole minigolf course. Through pouring rain and poor visibility, Lou and I proved that we were both utterly crap at golf with equal massively above-par scores. But at least the scenery was nice in between deluges. And they loaned us a brolly.

A quick trip to the lake was required to get some pictures of the black swans and their cygnets, the geese, the seagulls… And then into the car for the short journey to Taupo where we arrived slightly later than intended. About 5 hours later. Part of the reason for this was a stopoff at the Huka Falls, not far north of Taupo itself. These are part of a magnificent white-water stretch which, surprise surprise, Kiwis find great fun in whacking down in rafts, rubber tyres and kayaks.

 Taupo itself is a pleasant place, filled with old people. It’s also fairly unique amongst non-major towns in New Zealand in that I can actually pronounce the name without folding my tongue in three. Maori may be a great tradition and heritage, but the language is somewhat like German with less spitting. Or Welsh without the “hawking” and hatred of the English.

The hostel was a fairly rudimentary affair (wooden floor, dinky TV, thin sheets and what seemed to be icy air pumped in as far as Lou was concerned) with a cracking bar underneath. This was Destination Dinner and, for NZ$9.95 each, we had a mountain of mash, some huge bangers and around 2/3 of a bottle of HP Sauce between us. Also a small beer and a glass of wine. Bargain.

After dinner, Lou checked her mail while I rattled off some more lesson plans for Blue Dragon. I really need to get these emailed… Then downstairs to the bar again for far too much alcohol until they chucked us out so the staff could get some sleep.

I have vague recollections of Lou claiming to beat me at pool on a circular table, though due to the late hour and drinks I cannot vouch for the truth of this so I’m prepared to let it slip. There then followed a 7-or-so-hour period where we fought over the thin sheet and tried to convince our bodies we were getting some sleep. Our bodies weren’t fooled. Posted by Picasa

Hell’s Gate, Rotorua – popn. 2 (deep fried)

 Having visited Heaven’s Gate while in Sa Pa, I thought I’d complete the set over here with a trip to Hell’s Gate. A localised collection of sulphurous deposits, steam baths, minature volcanos and boiling mudpools this site is run by Maoris and is historically of great importance to them. Many of the pools within it were named by George Bernard Shaw when he visited the area – in fact it was he who christened the area Hell’s Gate.

 What could be a boring collection of rocks with some steam coming out from under them simply isn’t. There are many different pools of varying sizes, hot rocks, huge steam baths, mud pools, geysers that are regular as clockwork (another park nearby has one that erupts at 10:40am every day), a beautiful steam-enshrouded waterfall. Some of the pools are uniformly hot, others have hot and cool areas. Some are full of chemicals, others virtually pure. There is one which reaches over 100 degrees celsius as a result of the impurities in it. Another maintains a steady 98 degrees and can be used to cook a whole pig in under 2 hours. In fact, towards the end of the walk there is an area where visitors can purchase raw food and cook it in the steam and hot water. There is also a mud spa where you can bathe in the stuff. Apparently it’s good for the skin, and also for curing those nasty little scrapes and gaping wounds you get in day to day combat as a Maori warrior.

 As a bonus, the café was very reasonably priced and they made a cracking ham and chicken toastie (I got a funny look ordering that).

The only downside was that about halfway around, my camera batteries started to give up the ghost. Then the replacements failed after half a dozen pictures. Heading back into town (via the lake until the rain started) I bought a bunch of new ones for about half the UK price from one of the few shops open. Kiwis don’t open up their shops on a Sunday even to the paltry extent we do back home.

Courtesy of the heavens opening, we opted not to visit the other steamy water park and returned to the KiwiPaka via KFC (mmm… double bacon cheeseburger!). The afternoon was spent chilling out and catching up on postards, blogs and so forth. Gradually, the rain eased and we walked back into town.

 Tonight we went to Freo’s, where we’d intended to go the previous night, and had another nice meal. Again, far too much food was provided, I know why the Irish had a potato famine – the Kiwis have all the damn things. Or at least it seems that way when you see how many chips you get with a burger. Dessert was a mindblowing selection of fresh fruits and sorbets (blackcurrant, lemon and mango).

We plodged back to the hostel in time to catch the early minutes of Pirates of the Caribbean and necked some alco-fuel while we watched it. After having seen this for what now amounts to the third time, bed beckoned all to willingly. Posted by Picasa

Highway to Hell(’s Gate)

 As Lisa still hadn’t decided to let loose her clutches on little Megan, we decided to hire a car and set off southwards. At some point shortly we expect a phone call r text to say she’s gone into labour. Most likely when it’s far too late for us to head back up and do anything about it until the little ‘un’s about 2 weeks old.

Thanks to Indy for letting us dump about 3/4 of our luggage at the house while we’re travelling. I haven’t told him yet, but the intention is to leave him with most of it when I vanish back to Hanoi as well. Shh. Don’t tell.

The car we hired was… budget. That is, it’s a rusty bucket with a noisy engine and damage to some of the door seals. Oh, and it’s a flipping automatic. The most bizarre thing, to my British mind, is that it’s a Toyota Corsa. Confusing to me because Vauxhall make Corsas in the UK. That’s Vauxhall who trade under the name Holden in NZ and Australia. Thing is, it looks nothing like a Corsa that I’m aware of. Or even the Corolla – “our” Toyota equivalent of the Corsa. Just… something in between.

Importantly, it moves. Forwards and backwards. It even manages corners, though the acceleration is pitiful. On the flipside this means it’s quite fuel-efficient. Petrol is about NZ$1.70 a litre here – roughly 55p – slightly more than half the UK prices. This apparently has been rising constantly over the last year when it wasn’t much more than NZ$1.20 a litre. Diesel is 40c a litre cheaper, but very few cars use it.

The little beast got us to Rotorua. Foul, sulphorous odours and bubbly, muddy messes. It’s astounding the similarities between this place and my bottom after 3 days on a virtually vegetarian diet.

Rotorua is famous predominantly for some serious underground heating due to lava flows relatively close to the earth’s surface. Dotted around are clouds of steam visible day and night, and the smell of sulphur does pervade. Some areas stink of it permanently. Louise and I were immune due to my dodgy tummy for the last week. I think the residents started to notice me above the smell of their local neighbourhood rotten egg production.

We stayed in the Kiwi Paka, just outside the town centre. A very pleasant place, at a nice low price. Comfy beds, very clean, quiet, cracking powerful shower and an outside heated pool available 24/7 (though we never got round to having a dip). They also have 20 Kiwi beers available in three sizes (taster, regular and half-litre).

What really sets them out from everywhere else we’ve been in the entire of New Zealand, though, is that they have central heating. Pipes through the walls carrying hot water. As far as Kiwis are concerned, this is probably the work of the devil himself – witchcraft! Hence the picture…

Our arrival was a little later than we expected due to me inflicting 2 months’ of holiday pictures on Indy, so we pretty much just wandered into town for food. We were spoiled for choice, our only problem being it was a Saturday night and many of the nicer places were booked out. Kiwis go out to eat on Saturdays and it was also the Super-14s (rugby) final. Not exactly sensibly, it was taking place as a night game in Christchurch – engulfed in fog. We actually thought the first pub we walked past had a problem with it’s projector telly till we realised it was the broadcast signal that was white with airbourne water vapour.

We settled on the Belgium Bar for dinner. I had a Kiwi Breakfast – my first meat in 3 days, I think – and a large glass of some delicious Belgian cherry beer. This plus a huge mushroom omelette and a stupidly large portion of Belgian waffles came to NZ$35… and we realised after we left that we’d been given NZ$10 too much change. Bargain!

It had been a long day so bed was settled into very early, after throwing quiz questions at each other when we should have had the lights out. I think the answer to number 16 was “Zzzzzzzz”. Posted by Picasa