A Swiss day out

MartignyWell, we hit the weekend again and once more we were forecast good weather for most of it. This time, I decided to make some plans and had originally hoped to visit Turin, or even go further afield to Berne, Zurich and Liechtenstein. However, most of my European friends were busy so I decided instead to just hop over the border to Martigny. A short visit, but a chance to pick up some decent bargain-priced chocolate.

I don’t have a company vehicle and I’d originally intended to hitch elsewhere for the weekend. However, the director told me to just borrow one of the vehicles. So I did. And I had a very nice, gently, careful drive through the hills on Saturday afternoon. Now, those who know me also know that “gently” and “careful” are not words that go together with my driving. However, when the vehicle you’re driving is a new-model Toyota Hilux HX2… in bright red… right hand drive, in a left hand drive country… and belongs to the man who owns the company you work for sometimes exceptions can be made.

So off I set around midday. Window rolled down, nice high view, surprisingly easily adapting to the gear stick being on what’s now my “wrong” side, and with Brian Johnson screaming at me that he’s a “Heatseeker” and “don’t need no life preserver”. Very loudly indeed. Nice stereos in those Hilux’s.

It’s only about an hour to Martigny from Chamonix if you drive at a moderate speed. It’s also gorgeous. I stopped at a few places to take photos, including off the windy road above Martigny as I could see the town stretching out in the distance beneath me. The mountains in the area are fantastic and still snow-capped, and there are definitely some lovely hiking trails in the area if such takes your fancy.

Fort above MartignySwapping from France to Switzerland doesn’t even involve stopping as long as you have one of the mandatory Swiss vignettes in your window. It’s the Swiss road taxation system. Even if you’re only there for 15 minutes, you have to have one. Mind, at 40 Swiss Francs a year (approximately £20), it’s a fraction of the UK road tax fee.

On I drove, meandering up and down the windy roads. No bad traffic in the way, no camper vans or ageing Sunday drivers. It’s days like that when everything just seems all right in the world (even though we all know it isn’t – the incidents in Burma / Myanmar are weighing very heavily on my mind). All I needed was a very attractive driving companion with a good taste in music and loose morals and I’d have been on cloud nine. Ah well, if we had everything then we’d strive for nothing.

As I approached Martigny, I spotted one of the large road signs telling me that part of my planned day out would have to be cancelled. The Col de Grande St-Bernard was still shut, I assume due to weather reasons, so heading that way would only take me through the tunnel into Italy. A pity as I only spent a paltry few minutes up there the last time I passed through and I’d have liked to have seen more. Another time!

Wooden bridge in MartignyInstead, I located a Migros and spent a bit of cash on some groceries and chocolate. All cheaper than back in Chamonix, and definitely better quality. Frankly, the fruit and veg in Super-U can be a bit hit and miss quality-wise. It was nice to get tomatoes and peppers that didn’t look more wrinkly than a 90 year-old who’s been sunbathing too long. As for the chocolate… even Migros’ bargain basement cheap and tatty stuff is superior to the pricier own-brand muck sold in France. And it’s cheap.

I’d already made sandwiches for the trip, so I drove around a bit to find a nice place to park up. On the edge of town is a small fort perched on a hill. Below it, an old wooden bridge (closed for refurbishment) crosses a beautiful clean river. And right next to it, under some carefully-arranged trees was a nice empty bench. Lunch break.

A view back into FranceHaving driven round a lot of it, Martigny isn’t a startlingly beautiful town as such. From above it actually looks a bit like a Spanish resort town. A lot of the buildings are fairly modern and regularly laid out. It doesn’t have much character. However, there are a couple of small parts stuck on the edges (such as the road leading to the fort) which appear older and stand out when you see them.

And then there’s the scenery. You walk out of Migros into the car park and facing you is a mountainside completely covered with bright green trees. It stretched both directions as far as you can see. Look over your shoulder and there are grey mountains topped with snow. Lower down on their foothills, grapes are being grown although it’s early in the season so they look a little bare right now.

Oh, and being Switzerland it’s very clean!

After my lunch, I packed up and drove back the way I came. At the border I was stopped by one of the French guards and told that my front numberplate was damaged. News to me – when I collected the van it had been parked nose-first towards the hotel wall. It later transpired that “we” already knew about this and a replacement plate is in the van. Somewhere. Thing is, virtually every French speed camera catches you from the front, so they’re bound to be picky about front license plates.

Rock and treeI also made a couple of pit-stops to take more pictures. The weather continued to be glorious until I returned to Chamonix in the early evening. I do wish I’d had a vehicle to hand more often over the season – and more time off to make use of it. The whole area around here is tremendous for jaunting around and taking days out or weekends away. Having to work here has been a joy, but also slightly frustrating in the knowledge that so many other wonderful places were right on my doorstep – but unreachable at the time.

Ah well. All the more encouragement to come back another time, perhaps as a full time tourist!

Travelling to Europe? Sure?

A quick update and a little story from last Sunday at Geneva Airport for you.

This week I have mainly been hanging around with Leah. She made time in her busy schedule (i.e. the long winter holiday) to pop over and spend new year with me. We had a few really good nights out, got rather tiddly, ate some decent nosh and Leah tried her hand (or rather backside) at snowboarding. Her sis is apparently pretty good, having spent a fair amount of time in New Zealand. Leah didn’t do too badly for a complete novice, but we didn’t have an enormous amount of time for her to practice.

But back to the previous weekend and Geneva Airport. Now, look at a map and you’ll be aware that Switzerland is part of Europe. However, it is <em>not</em> part of the European Union. There are many agreements between the EU and Switzerland, one of which involves the freedom of movement of people – citizens of one can travel through the other unhindered and without a need for visas. You generally speaking won’t have to stop at a customs point on a border and so on.

However, if you’re an EU citizen and you <em>do</em> get stopped on the border (they randomly stop vehicles) then you must have your passport. Any other form of ID is not sufficient. Likewise if you fly in/out of Switzerland then you require a passport.

For those who are not EU citizens, it gets slightly more complicated…

If you’re from outside of Europe and you plan a holiday here you generally apply for your visa in advance (depending on where you’re from). The family who had the problem last week were from South America. They did as so many other people do – landed within Europe (I assume in the UK in their case) and their visa was checked, sorted and they went on their way. From then on, travel within Europe is fine but generally the visa will expire when you leave Europe and try to re-enter.

Ah, now I just made the same mistake they probably did. I said "Europe" when I should have said "the EU". They booked a holiday with us, hopped onto their plane in London or wherever, got off in Geneva… and then found out that they didn’t have a visa to enter Switzerland. Their holiday destination was actually to be in France, but we use Geneva as a main hub as it’s a larger airport than our alternative (Chambery).

Technically the fault lies with the airline as the family should not have been allowed on the flight in the first place. But airports make mistakes (witness my visa-less flight to Australia) and so they ended up stuck at immigration in Geneva Airport. We did get the situation sorted and they caught a later bus to their resort. Apparently there’s a French area or something at the airport where they were allowed to pass through, but don’t expect this to work for everyone.

So it’s a simple warning – when traveling, don’t assume that every country has the same immigration regulations for you as every other – even if they share borders.

More border-hopping

Several times in two days, in fact.

From Geneva, I hiked back to Nyon to replace the video that got destroyed when my memory card fritzed on me. From there, up into the hills and to La Cure which straddles the French/Swiss border. I stopped for a drink in a hotel there (l’Hotel Franco-Suisse) which actually sits right on the border. Two of the bedrooms are laid out so that when you sleep, your head is in one country and your feet in the other.

While I was sat there, I got talking to a local Frenchman called Guillaume (the French version of William). His grandfather used to work at the hotel during the war as it was a way to escape the Germans, with one half of the building in France and the other in Switzerland. He sat with me and got me some guidebooks, told me about loads of things to see in the area then insisted on paying for my beer and driving me the 2km to the hostel.

If I ever say anything bad about the French ever again, kindly kick me.

The Auberge was the only one I could find online at short notice, but in the immediate area there must be another three or four gites. This one included breakfast and, when I arrived, dinner for an extra 10 Euros. I was tempted as it was getting late, but the main course was fish which I really don’t like. Apparently all the shops were now shut, but I opted to take my chances and head into the nearest town – les Rousses – and see what was to be had.

Half an hour later, I found a moderately expensive convenience store that was just about to close. Twelve Euros later and I had my dinner for the day and my lunch for the next. Back at the hostel I rustled up two nice steaks, some boiled spuds and mixed veg. Washed down with a Heineken and a half litre of (UHT – yuk) milk. And topped off with a cake someone had left in the “help yourself” box. And I was still hungry.

I got to bed around midnight after getting slightly addicted to my PSP for an hour or so, but was up very early the next morning to go for… well… for a walk. There’s a nearby hill called la Dolem atop which is the weather station and RADAR site for Geneva airport. The view is meant to be splendid but has to be seen early in the morning before cloud builds and spoils the view of Mont Blanc. Not to be missed, I’d been told. So I didn’t want to miss it.

The walk to the start of the hike is around an hour from la Cure. I was most of the way there when who shows up but Guillaume, driving back into town. He offerend – and I accepted – a lift to the foot of the walk to save me another twenty minutes. What a guy!

I took the direct route up, pretty much in a straight line under the main skilift. This was steep in places – very steep – but got me to the top in around thirty minutes. The meandering pathway takes twice that, though it doesn’t destroy your knees so much. Or your trousers. I’ve had to restitch the crotch on mine twice now.

The view from the top was one of those that simply makes you go “wow” when you first see it. Most of Lake Geneva is visible with mist rolling over it. Nyon, Lausanne and Geneva are clearly visible. The Jet in Geneva shows how huge it is by being an unmissable sight even from this distance.

It’s also interesting to look at the man-made stuff perched on the top of the hill relating to the airport. A huge golf-ball like RADAR station, accompanying weather equipment and an auto-tracking security camera… though I’m not sure what it tracks! Still, I didn’t have too long, so I hurried back down the hill (running seems easier when you’ve got gravity on your side) and made it back to the hostel to get my large rucksack and stride off towards Champagnole.

The route there is long – a marathon, literally – but I got there in the late evening to be greeted by Florent, my Couchsurfing host for the evening. We avoided the excellent-looking Big Ben pizza (complete with genuine London taxi cab for delivery purposes) as the food’s apparently awful and had a healthy organic salad instead. Florent was to be up at 6am for a cycling race the next day and diet is all-important!

More on Geneva

Just some stuff that’s come bubbling brainwards as I’ve been walking. First off – cars. The Swiss as a whole, but Genevois in particular seem to love their autos. Geneva is rather affluent and it shows. If you see a Golf, it’s more than likely a GTi (or even an R32). A Ford Focus? ST. I saw two Maybachs (or the same one twice) and two different Ferraris in the space of two minutes on one road.

I walked past a garage outside of which was a fine yellow Land Rover complete with power driven winch on the front. Next to it was a pristine antique Morgan and three Aston Martin DB9s. Ten minutes later I saw a DB7 drive past with the top down. I’d not even heard of the new Audi R8 until I saw one parked at the side of the road, it’s engine gleaming through the rear window.

All this affluence belies a problem though – poverty is rife int he area and it’s impossible to walka round the centre or suburbs without seeing beggars. The do seem to get a fair few handouts though. The most annoying ones I spotted were the couple who boarded the tram with an enormous old electronic keyboard and sang along to it (very badly) in (I think) Italian. I suffered them twice. Argh.

And now some factoids for you:

The “CH” you see on the car stickers for Switzerland comes from “Confoederatio Helvetica”. The Helvetii were an ancient race of Celts who used to live in the Alps and it’s the Latin (and therefore neutral) version of the French, Romansh or Italian terms for “Swiss Confederation”.

Maintaining its neutrality means that Switzerland isn’t in the EU so you can get duty free. The copious border points are popular for the neighbouring French as ciggies are very cheap in Switzerland compared to France. And the chocolate’s better. Mind you, try and find a cheap Japanese watch (my Seconda’s knackered) and you’re stuffed. I think it’s illegal to sell non-Swiss watches or penknives in the country.

Switzerland has four official languages: French, German, Italian and Romansh. However, if you’re anywhere remotely touristy you can be pretty much assured of English speakers being everywhere.

Water jets, parks, physics labs…

Geneva has them all and more. I’m going to rush through everything here as I don’t have much more time to add to the blog before I have to set off. A shame as there’s so much to tell! There are a few videos on my YouTube "MoshTour" player so go to my default channel to enjoy them all.

Delphine flew up from Nice on the Saturday and together we toured the city centre and surrounds. One of the major sights is the water jet in the "harbour". This thing fires water into the air at around 200kph and has been running for well over 100 years. Impressive stuff. Also around the lake, you can hire a myriad of different boats or sit on an artificial beach. The botanical gardens are rather nice with some animals in one corner, fish ponds, art displays, greenhouses and the like. On the way up there from the city is the History of Science museum which was great aside from the lack of signs in English. OK, so I’m in a French-speaking country, but it’s quite annoying when around 25% of the exhibits are marked in English and the rest aren’t. It’s also mainly a shame as it’s such a good place to visit with tons of things to see. There are other gardens on the south (or "old city") side of the lake which are also worth a visit. More like a park than a garden, really, but relaxing and with some lovely flower displays with views over the lake that the Botanical Gardens don’t have. Getting around Geneva is moderately cheap with 1-hour and all-day passes available across the bus, tram and trolley networks. Watch out for the ticket machines, though – they don’t give change. If you over pay for a ticket, you can save the little bit of paper (it has how much you overpaid printed on it) and get the money back from an office. Apparently. I never found one. An alternative is the free bike service. There are at least four "depots" where you can pick up a bike for a 20 Franc deposit and a copy of your ID. For four hours, the bike is free and can be returned to any of the drop-off points. After that, it starts at 1 Franc per hour, so still remarkably cheap. It’s even cheaper when you hire three and return them at different times and they give you the deposit back twice over… But, the coolest thing is that Geneva is home to the main offices of CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research. As well as being the headquarters for the largest nuclear accelerator on the planet (a 27-kilometre ring situated 100m underground and crossing into France for a fair part of that), it’s where Tim Berners-Lee drafted and tested the WWW. In fact, I’ve seen the first ever Web server, encased in glass in the Microcosm exhibition. And I am sad enough to admit that I was awestruck by a fairly crappy old PC. We went to CERN three times. The first on the Saturday as there is a free demonstration / lecture at 3pm once a week where a mad professor-like guy does stupid things with liquid nitrogen (like making ice cream which is scrummy). We didn’t get time to finish our walk around the Microcosm museum, so we went back on the Monday to finish it off. There is also a 3-hour daily tour around the facility, but it’s a different language each day and all the tours are booked up for 10 months in advance. We settled for buying geeky t-shirts and playing cards instead. That is, until Delphine invited a friend of hers over for fondue at it turned out over conversation that he works at CERN! More to the point, he could take visitors around… Not in the same capacity as the official tours, as he has to fit it around work, but all the same we leapt at the chance. Thomas was a great guide. We started off with lunch in the canteen (steak and beer!) before he took us to see the CMS Project, part of the enormous LHC ring. This thing is phenomenal, made up of parts weighing upwards of 800 tons each. These are all assembled and tested on the ground and then lowered through a tube into a chamber 100m down – the tube is barely 10cm wider than the parts themselves, so it’s precision work just getting the parts assembled underground. Our little trip was barely an hour, but definitely well worth the bus ride out (and Delphine almost missing her plane home). Just to feel the scale of the thing is something that can’t be achieved without standing right next to it. Well, as I said, Delphine flew back to Nice and I caught up with all this stuff while Daisy, my kind host, was out for the evening. The dogs kept me company as I watched us lose to Germany (on BBC1… in Switzerland!) and I finish typing this at 4am when I should be in bed! I think tomorrow will be a fairly short walk.