I told you I’d get here eventually

Well, last night was a bit of a giggle. We had three new people in the room (well, by “we” I mean Esther as I wasn’t actually in the room any more) – a Swiss guy, a chap from Ireland and Claire from Cardiff. After we’d been chatting for a while, the irish lad (sorry, fella – I told you I’d forget your name!) said “I’m sure I know you from somewhere… were you at Melanka’s?”

Then he twigged. I was the fruitcake he’d seen wandering the streets wearing nowt but a “Don’t Panic” towel because the lock on my dorm door had broken and I couldn’t get into my room, unless calling for West Palm Beach FL rekeying guys help. Of all the ways to be recognised…

We went out as a group to the Vic where some 18 year-old bouncer wannabe insisted on ID-ing everyone, myself included. Which is pretty pathetic, but that’s what happens when you combine the role of a bouncer with someone who’s barely pushing puberty. The Irish guy had to walk back to the hostel for his passport – thankfully we weren’t staying at Gecko’s or he’d have had a 30-plus minute round trip.

After a quick meal, Esther, myself and our Swiss roomie (sorry – her Swiss roomie) went to Shennanigans for a quick drink. I was starting to nod off again, so after a schooner of Coopers I borrowed the neutral Swiss key and walked back to the Cav where I finally cleared my entire email backlog. Apologies to those who received around 40 “joke” emails over the last two days…

My bus ticket was for 00:35 with a warning to “be ready five minutes before departure”. Dot on 00:30, I was stood outside when a girl asked me if I was waiting for the bus. “It’s just left,” she told me.

Great.

Fortunately, after leaving, the driver checked his manifest and realised he was one passenger short so circled the block. He said it was a good job for me he’d checked. I think he’d be best to look at my past history of complaints against companies that fail to do their job properly. Nevertheless, I got to the airport around 1am and checkin was already open.

Bags deposited, I clambered up the escalator, got ripped off $2.50 for a semi-chilled Mars Bar and fell asleep in a seat. I awoke to notice that everyone around me had vanished and panicked somewhat. At Darwin airport, the International lounge is through a separate door that they only open around an hour before flight departures – and close 30 minutes later. I didn’t realise this and almost got locked out!

I made it, though, and managed to wangle three seats on the plane, so I caught up on a couple of hours’ sleep.

I’m now safe in the hostel and just trying to figure out what to do with my day – after I’ve bought some new shoes!

Later that same day…

Shoes have now been purchased with the help of a nice shop assistant who, like most Singaporeans, supports Liverpool. We had a good natter and I walked off with some cheap trainers for $22 (around £6.50). I also bought the Mephloquin I need to help prevent me getting malaria in India. All I have to do now is remember to take one tablet on the same day each week.

I’ve swapped out my Oz SIM card from my phone as it doesn’t work here at all. The UK one is back in, so if you know the number and feel the need to text then feel free. I’ll likely reply by email or by text via Skype when I get the chance. If you want the number for some reason – ask! I won’t be buying a SIM for Singapore or Malaysia as I simply won’t be here long enough, though I might sort myself out with one in India.

It’s looking like I won’t be going diving on the east coast now. A guy I was talking to over breakfast was heading that way very recently and met hoardes of backpackers coming back the other way with tales of boats being moored and dive shops closing for the monsoon season. Bugger.

I’m also not going for one of my planned walks this afternoon. The main aim is to enjoy the plod and get some good photographs. Thing is, the heavens just opened and I don’t have a waterproof camera case. When it rains here, it rains. Impressive thunder as well. Not so much “peels” as “attempts to replicate Ragnarok“. It’s like being back in Hanoi, just with a more convenient 7-11.

Instead, I’ve picked up a ticket to see Casino Royale. It’s pretty typical of Oz and NZ that despite being many times larger, they lag behind when it comes to film releases to a dinky little Island off the coast of Malaysia. Plus, the tickets here are only $7 (around £2.30).

While loafing around in the bar (well, what else is one to do while waiting to a film to start, especially when the beer’s cheaper earlier in the evening than later) I noticed something I missed about Singapore – the way the cultures mix so much. Watching someone of Asian appearance (that’s Asian as in “from Asia” as opposed to the rather illogical British definition) open their mouth and an accent come out that would be more at home somewhere halfway between Delhi and Kingston.

And later…

Well, Casino Sony (or Ericsson Royale, you know – the new James Vaio film) is pretty good though it does go on a bit. We missed the first few minutes (I don’t think there were any adverts) but I’ll catch them when I buy the DVD. As you may have gathered, the product placement is as rife as ever. At least he’s firmly back in the seat of an Aston Martin (after starting off in a flipping Ford Megane or something – seriously, it had a Ford badge but looked like a Megane). The starting chase scene is very impressive, the story quite dark and it’s pretty violent for a PG.

I’ll have to see if the weather holds up before making my plans for tomorrow. Pretty much everything I want to do involves being outside!

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve and farewell Singapore!

 Today was almost a washout. Literally. I woke to the sound of torrential rain lashing down. Not the kind of weather wants to endure on a trip to a nature reserve.

However, by 10:00 or thereabouts it had eased. The staff at the hostel warned me that it’s been “due to rain” for some time so it may well start again – but to go ahead and try the park anyway. So I did. Everything was packed and stored securely, I grabbed my day bag and made for the MRT.

 A short ride and another bus trip got me to the park entrance. Once again, the staff at the MRT were really helpful with bus numbers, directions and offers of a brolly!

The park was a delight. Essentially, Singapore used to be a jungle. A rain forest. There is now 3% of that forestry left and all of it has been declared National Parkland and is protected. In line with Singaporean policy, anyone doing anything thet shouldn’t around it is fined. No littering, no smoking, no feeding the monkeys… It may seem harsh, but it seems to work. The place was utterly litter-free and the monkeys don’t get too close to people. Very close, but not “item-snatching” close.

 The trees and foliage are spectacular, but it’s a heck of a lot of walking. The weather brightened up, but remained horribly humid as I walked down trails and up steps. I’ve not been this exhausted in ages – even moreso that when I was running on China Beach. Steps really do make you work harder than flat land!

It was all worthwhile, though. Small signs give details of the plants, animals and insects and the paths are clearly marked and as environmentally-friendly as possible. The views from certain spots, such as the quarry (due to overflow in 2 years) are astonishing. The wildlife is also beautiful, from the monkeys (Long-tailed Macaques) to the two species of squirrel to the large lizard I saw on one path.

 By the time I called it a day about 3 hours later, I was drenched in sweat and my legs were literally shaking. But what a day. It’s hard to believe this little bit of paradise is, at it’s closest spot, maybe 30m away from a shopping centre. It’s also the tallest hill in Singapore so has a whopping set of radio masts at the top!

A young boy came up to me – I’d bumped into him and his father a couple of times – and we talked about the monkeys for a while. He wanted to know what they ate, why we shouldn’t feed them and how they groomed. I’d guess he was about 12. Smart kid, and really polite.

When I arrived back at the MRT station, the guy I’d spoken to earlier yelled to me, “Did you enjoy your walk?”

I got talking to him for a few minutes and you can’t help but feel that the locals here really like Singapore and want you to feel welcome and come back. I know I have and I think I will.

But I’m typing this up in McD’s as time ticks down to my flight. In fact, I should be heading for the MRT about now, so I’ll sign off. Next update will hopefully be from Darwin! Posted by Picasa

Animals and Birds – photo update

Courtesy of free wireless in McDonalds (that was initially as sluggish as trying to wade through a swimming pool full of their milkshake) I have uploaded a *ton* of pictures from the Zoo and the Bird Park.

All at the usual place.

As ever, if you’d like any larger, better quality images then please ask and I can email them to you.

Jurong Bird Park

 Now, I’m not as huge a fan of our feathered friends as I am of the rest of the animal kingdom. However, as it was so cheap to add this one extra park to yesterday’s ticket, it seemed daft not to include it in my itinerary so I paid up and made my way there today.

Again, public transport made the trip a (very cheap) doddle and I arrived at 10:40, missing the first Birds of Prey show of the day. The next was at 4pm and I wasn’t to make that one either as I left too early!

The Bird Park is larger than the Night Safari, but nowhere near as big as the Zoo. Still, I left just before 3pm and didn’t stop for lunch so it’s still a good half-day with my walking pace. Like the main zoo there are many places where you can walk in amongst the birds so there is no glass or wire between you and them. The prime example of this is probably the Lory Loft which is utterly huge and filled with the brightest-coloured Aussie birds you’ve ever seen. For a small fee (S$2 or S$5) you can collect a container of sugary liquid that sends these avians nuts and has then sat on your arm for feeding. Suspension bridges and half a forest complete this amazing attraction.

 Not too far away is the Waterfall Aviary which includes the world’s largest man-made waterfall which towers at 30m in height. The whole exhibit looks like someone’s lifted a chunk of rain forest and dumped it indoors. Like the Lory Loft, it’s utterly enthralling if for slightly different architectural reasons.

Sadly, such is the nature of birds that many of them have to be caged which lessened the number of photographs I could (or would) take. Where possible I’ll not take a picture that shows an animal to be caged. Don’t ask why. I just don’t like to.

Outdoors, however, it’s amazing how many birds are in completely open enclosures and don’t disappear. Pelican, flamingo and numerous others I can’t recall the names off all live happily outdoors – even some parrots and maccaws.

The bird show I did get to see was impressive with some great aerobatics from the feathered performers. One vulture wasn’t playing, though. It was his first performance and he seemed to get stage fright!

 Near the entrance are a few Mynah birds and parrots which can speak surprisingly well. All of them have a list of words and phrases that can say. Coaxing them to do so is suprisingly easy!

Though I didn’t stay long enough to see the Birds of Prey show, I did get to see the stars as they’re housed near the park used for the demonstrations. Part of me wishes I had stayed on, but I would have been sat around for over an hour. Maybe next time!

I do have one less happy thing to say, and this goes for all three attractions. It’s nothing to do with them directly, in fact they’re doing their best to raise awareness of this and help out. It’s the staggeringly upsetting number of times you look at the information board for an animal and see the word “Endangered” written on it. Worse still is “critically endangered”. And even worse is that in every single case it’s our fault in some way or another. Deforestation. Hunting (for trade, meat, safety of humans). Poisoning. Environmental destruction due to global warming and the like.

 This is where I’m glad we have zoos. It’s easy to tell people that these animals are struggling in countries far away. We can look at the TV and read books with pictures of them and go “aw”. But sit next to one, touch it, watch it perform feats that prove it’s not just a “dumb animal” and hopefully it’ll hit a little harder that we need to save every single one of these animals. The Zoo has two wonderful quotes on large boards as you exit the Fragile Forest exhibit:

If all the beasts were gone,
man would die from great loneliness of spirit,
For whatever happens to the beasts
also happend to man
All things are connected.
Whatever befalls the Earth
befalls the sons of the Earth.
Chief Seattle of the Suquamish & Duwamish, 1855

The forest is a peculiar organism
of unlimited kindless and
benevolence, that makes no
demands for sustenance and
extends generously the products
of its activity; it affords
protection to all beings,
offering shade even to the
axeman who destroys it.
Lord Buddha, 500BC

Right, I’m off for a McDonald’s. Purely to see if they do indeed have free wireless as I’ve been told.

[update – sat outside McD’s and I have a 4-bar wireless connection. Wicked!] Posted by Picasa

Singapore Zoo and Night Safari

 Well, this was my main reason for stopping off in Singapore – the Zoo and it’s associated Night Safari. Both are located in the same area, and as the former closes, the latter opens its doors for the night.

Getting there was easy with the directions provided and the superb public transport system in Singapore. A short walk to the MRT station, about 50p for a ticket, arrive at interchange and swap to the bus for another 50p and I was there. In total, it took about an hour. Everywhere I had to stop and ask people, they were incredibly helpful. Schoolkids who needed to get past me said “excuse me”. Anyone I thanked said “you’re welcome”. I’m in the land of polite people and it’s such a refreshing change.

At the Zoo, I bought a 3-park “hopper” pass for the main zoo, the Night Safari and the Bird Park for tomorrow. The grand total was S$40 – around £12.50. This is an astoundingly good price considering Singapore’s reputation for it’s “touristy” attractions. And let me tell you, that reputation is well-deserved.

 Now, I loved Auckland Zoo. Edinburgh’s not bad. Chester was wonderful – the first I’d been to in years at the time. Barcelona is eye-opening. But Singapore Zoo really is superb. I mean no disrespect to the others as Singapore has one major advantage over many others – the climate. Many of the animals here (and in other zoos) come from hot, humid climates: Africa, Asia and South America. Edinburgh can’t hope to keep, say, a tiger in the right conditions without some kind of environmental control whereas Singapore can keep them in the open air all year round.

This aside, the layout is superb. So much thought has gone into everything from the signposts to the names of the burgers at the attached restaurants. The range of animals is just wonderful, the conditions they are kept in just as good as you could hope for in most cases (sadly, cages are still necessary in some cases) and the place is spotless. Staff are also very knowledgable, enthusiastic and helpful.

Singapore Zoo has the largest primate collection in the world, and they know what to do with it. Orangutan roam freely in several areas and could, I’m sure, just clamber down from the trees should they wish. Two very small primates did, in fact, do just that. They were fed just off one of the pathways and took to running back and forth near the visitors.

There are several areas where tourists can walk around with no cages, bars or glass between them and the animals. The best by far (in my opinion) was the Fragile Forest exhibit with sloth, tree kangaroo, flying foxes, ring-tailed lemur and countless butterflies and parrots. Absolutely awe-inspiring. I can’t believe how close I was to some of these beautiful animals, and able to get some of the best photos I’ve ever taken.

 In addition, some shows are put on during the day at the amphitheatre, as well as many “feedings” where visitors can watch or participate (usually for a few dollars). I watch one of the shows and paid S$5 to have my photo taken with a sealion and a monitor lizard. Worth every penny as it goes towards the zoo’s own conservation drive.

What else? Blimey. Well, I saw my first ever Komodo Dragon in the flesh. It took some doing as he/she didn’t want to come out at midday and just poked his/her head up out of the burrow. Later in the afternoon, he/she finally went for a wander and I got some good pictures.

A bizarre one, but I saw two Giant Tortoises attempting to make baby Giant Tortoises. And who thought tortoises were quiet creatures? Without too much detail, the male makes a fair bit of a hollow gaspy grunt each time he … erm… thrusts. So now I know how to tell the difference between male and female tortoises. The male’s the one on top.

Singapore Zoo also has the only three white tigers in captivity. These stunning creatures are not albino – they have pink noses, blue eyes and pink pads on their feet. They’re also completely mesmerising.

I could go on.

I will.

It has the only “research and study” exhibit I’ve ever seen at a zoo. Nobody else seemed to either find it or care, but this small boxed room near the entrance has some interesting information on animal care and health. And… windows into the veterinary surgery where animals are taken for treatment. While I was there, I could see a small hooved animal having work done on one of its feet. I couldn’t see much more as there was someone (with a very nice bum) leaning over the table from the side I was looking from. That kind of thing would be pot luck, but the surgery seemed geared up for most of the “not huge” animals.

 The amount of educational material available at all the exhibits is top notch. There are mildly interactive things for kids to play with, a water fun park for them to splash in at lunchtime and no fewer than two KFCs. I admit to using both of them, but only as the burger joint that’s part of the Night Safari was so expensive, I had no other choice than to double back and have a KFC for dinner – it was less than half the price of a meal at Bongo Burger.

Onto the Night Safari and as the name suggests this attraction is geared at nocturnal creatures. As such, I have very few pictures as flash photography isn’t allowed in the park. This, of course, doesn’t stop some idiots. Bumping into them and making them drop their camera so it smashes, however, does.

The walkways and tram both open at 7pm, just as the sun’s starting to go below the horizon. Night falls within roughly 30 minutes of this time, and being on the equator this time doesn’t change year-round. Some of the animals they have here are just beautiful, and you’d simply not get the chance to see them in other zoos without keeping them indoors and messing with their body clocks.

Several of the animals are “repeats” from the main zoo – giraffes, lions, tigers and so on – but it’s worth seeing them in the near-dark. Their behaviour is different. For other animals, night-time is simply the only time they’ll move. Watching a leopard pace around through just a centimetre of glass maybe isn’t the closest I’ve been to a wild cat this year, but it’s still enough to raise the hairs on the back of my neck. The lesser bush-baby has the opposite effect and I just wanted to cuddle it and take it home.

The Night Safari is less than half the size of the main zoo, but is definitely worth a visit – especially for the Creatures of the Night show which was packed to the rafters for the performance I saw. On the way in there had been another show – again I’d paid S$5 to have some pictures taken with a serval, a python and an owl. There are also a place on the way round where you can have a snap with a corn snake.

Afterwards, I opted for the easier single bus back for $4. A whole 30p more than public transport, but less faff. I couldn’t believe that I got stuck in a traffic jam at 10:40pm. Only in Singapore, I guess – it really is a 24-hour city.

I’ve only been able to pick a small smattering of pics to post with this entry. The rest of the ones I like will go onto Fotopic when I get the chance. Posted by Picasa