Metz – not an alcopop

OK, Metz isn’t an alcopop any more but it used to be. In the UK anyway. It tasted of flat lemonade and I think it had vodka in. Anyway, this is not that Metz. This one is much older and still here, and a good thing too as it’s another place well worth a day or so of your touristy time and a roll of film.

I strolled into town and the first major building I noticed was the huge railway station. It looks positively ancient, but is apparently only just over 100 years old, built by Germans when the town was under their control. Metz has changed hands a few times over the years! It’s a fantastic building with a cathedral-like structure and related carvings on the front.

Out front is a very impressive flower display. If you pop into the station there are some stairs which lead to a balcony on the front so you can get an aerial view of the layout below and see the shapes made by the various plants. Pretty cool. There’s a video of the view on YouTube.

My hostess picked me up from the station and drove me to her flat where we had some dinner and I collapsed for the night after repairing her laptop. I had one day to be a tourist the next day and, with Laurène as my guide, wandered the (rainy) streets of Metz. We stopped at tourist information for a souvenir map where I was informed that there are several walks around Metz. All of these are marked by golden triangles in the ground which guide you on your chosen route. The map had information on each place along the walks.

Most of the buildings are made of a yellow stone, from the cathedral to the shops. It’s a local stone and makes the city look like it’s under a permanent street lamp. The aforementioned cathedral is the first thing we saw and it’s pretty much into the “huge” category – apparently one of the largest in France. Like Nancy, Metz has been spending some cash on restoration and cleaning. The cathedral is spotless in the areas where they’ve finished and the work seems to be continuing. Very impressive, very tall, very well decorated and with some lovely stained glass windows inside. As ever, I’m not remotely religious but it amazes me what people can build when they put their minds to it. Even if the building takes them 200 years.

From there, we found a park and some fountains which reminded me – on a smaller scale – of some of the Italian ones. The rain came down and we scurried into a shopping mall where I browsed through a book shop. A curious French hobby is collecting hardback comic books. Some of them look fantastic, though they’re not cheap at around seven quid for a 40-page story. There are thousands of these things and I wish they were in English so I could curl up and read through them!

As the rain eased, we headed for a pub where we’d arranged to meet Patricia and Lionel, two more couchsurfing hosts from the city. Patricia took us to a nearby pub where she seemed to know all the staff and regulars (good girl!). We enjoyed a couple of drinks and a good chat before Patricia had to leave. The remaining three of us finished our drinks, I admired the paintwork in the lavatories (very curious – cartoon willies jumping off cliffs) and we set off to see the city by night.

And what a sight. All the major buildings are lit up beautifully allowing for some great photos. The Temple Neuf which sits on bank where two parts of the river rejoin after flowing around an island has to be seen to be believed. The cathedral is also, obviously, lit up. A shame they had to build houses and shops in Metz as there’s no complete view of the building from a distance!

Lionel kindly drove us back to Laurène’s where we had a late dinner, watched some American TV shows in French and I unfolded my couch once more.

Again, I have had a great time and met some wonderful, generous people. Thanks to you all for making this visit even better than I’d hoped!

Nice Nancy

OK, that heading will confuse people. Nice is in the south, Nancy is in the north. I’m using the English adjective.

My couchsurfing host here was Suum, a law student who’s lived in and around Nancy all her life. Even though she’d just moved into her new flat, she was happy to host me and in the first instance was going to give me the whole flat while she stayed with a friend! I talked her into letting me use my bedrolls from camping, and then accepted a fold down bed she went out and bought instead. Talk about hospitality! I did build the bed myself (with a little help from one of her friends) which is cool. Anyone else who couchsurfs there will be on my handiwork.

So, Nancy. What’s it got? Well, a fantastic central square in the old town for one. Place Stanislas is magnificent in all senses of the word. Grand, showy, impressive, clean and bustling. Apparently the council gave it a really good going over a couple of years ago and it shows. It’s now completely pedestrianised and all the walls, paving, statues and fountains are as gleaming as stone can possibly be. The gold paintwork gleams in a more traditional way. Stanislas was actually Polish, and one of the last great dukes in the region. He was a huge patron of the arts and the Place was a way of thanking and remembering him. It’s a wonderful memorial.

I arrived at a nice time as well. I believe a world record was being set for the longest pastry, stretching from the statue in the centre of the square to one of the arches at the edge – 200m long. Either way, I arrived in time to get some photos and a couple of slices!

Suum walked me around a lot of the rest of town, and we saw some nice buildings. A few are original examples of Art Nouveau, so you can blame Nancy for starting that movement off. At least the style doesn’t look as awful as it does elsewhere. The original is still the best.

In the evening, we ended up at one of Suum’s friend’s flats and I got fed, watered, beered, wined and cidered quite well. I felt a little bad as I was expecting to eat out so hadn’t bought anything. So a public “thank you” is required to all those who made me feel welcome!

As ever recently, I’m sure I’ve missed some things out. Sadly, my internet time at the moment is more restricted than it used to be so… *shrugs* I have uploaded a video on YouTube, though.

Vesoul – small but nice

Just a quick bit about Vesoul. The tourist information place is really helpful and provides a small map of the town and some directions for walking around it. These are well worth getting and read like an audio tour, pointing out little features of all the things.

Also take a walk up the hill and see la Motte, a little statue / chapel thing erected to Notre Dame (Our Lady) in thanks at only a small number of people being killed in an epidemic in the late 18th century. It offers a nice view of the town and surrounds, and has the coolest map I’ve seen at one of these sights.

While we were up there, we found three teeny kittens. They couldn’t have been more than a couple of weeks old and there was no sign of a mother. Philippe and I played with them for a little while, but when we came to leave they started to cry and chase after us. The only conclusion we could come to is that some ******* had dumped them there.

We were discussing where we could take them (animal shelter, vets…) when small family walked past and we got talking. They decided to take them home and adopt them. I’m just glad that most people are good enough. But if I got my hands on the retard who chucked them up there, I’d find myself running rather than walking out of Vesoul to avoid arrest…

My time in Vesoul was brief but as ever I was made to feel very welcome by my host and his friends. Bizarrely, I met four people besides Philippe – two French women who didn’t speak English and two Romanian women who did!

Also, there’s a video of the view from la Motte on YouTube.

More videos

YouTube’s being a bit crap and not allowing more than a handful of videos to appear in their new “channel” things. So, the best way to look at my new stuff is to go to the page with all my videos on and pick the ones you’ve not seen yet. There are a few from round la Cure. Enjoy!

Water jets, parks, physics labs…

Geneva has them all and more. I’m going to rush through everything here as I don’t have much more time to add to the blog before I have to set off. A shame as there’s so much to tell! There are a few videos on my YouTube "MoshTour" player so go to my default channel to enjoy them all.

Delphine flew up from Nice on the Saturday and together we toured the city centre and surrounds. One of the major sights is the water jet in the "harbour". This thing fires water into the air at around 200kph and has been running for well over 100 years. Impressive stuff. Also around the lake, you can hire a myriad of different boats or sit on an artificial beach. The botanical gardens are rather nice with some animals in one corner, fish ponds, art displays, greenhouses and the like. On the way up there from the city is the History of Science museum which was great aside from the lack of signs in English. OK, so I’m in a French-speaking country, but it’s quite annoying when around 25% of the exhibits are marked in English and the rest aren’t. It’s also mainly a shame as it’s such a good place to visit with tons of things to see. There are other gardens on the south (or "old city") side of the lake which are also worth a visit. More like a park than a garden, really, but relaxing and with some lovely flower displays with views over the lake that the Botanical Gardens don’t have. Getting around Geneva is moderately cheap with 1-hour and all-day passes available across the bus, tram and trolley networks. Watch out for the ticket machines, though – they don’t give change. If you over pay for a ticket, you can save the little bit of paper (it has how much you overpaid printed on it) and get the money back from an office. Apparently. I never found one. An alternative is the free bike service. There are at least four "depots" where you can pick up a bike for a 20 Franc deposit and a copy of your ID. For four hours, the bike is free and can be returned to any of the drop-off points. After that, it starts at 1 Franc per hour, so still remarkably cheap. It’s even cheaper when you hire three and return them at different times and they give you the deposit back twice over… But, the coolest thing is that Geneva is home to the main offices of CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research. As well as being the headquarters for the largest nuclear accelerator on the planet (a 27-kilometre ring situated 100m underground and crossing into France for a fair part of that), it’s where Tim Berners-Lee drafted and tested the WWW. In fact, I’ve seen the first ever Web server, encased in glass in the Microcosm exhibition. And I am sad enough to admit that I was awestruck by a fairly crappy old PC. We went to CERN three times. The first on the Saturday as there is a free demonstration / lecture at 3pm once a week where a mad professor-like guy does stupid things with liquid nitrogen (like making ice cream which is scrummy). We didn’t get time to finish our walk around the Microcosm museum, so we went back on the Monday to finish it off. There is also a 3-hour daily tour around the facility, but it’s a different language each day and all the tours are booked up for 10 months in advance. We settled for buying geeky t-shirts and playing cards instead. That is, until Delphine invited a friend of hers over for fondue at it turned out over conversation that he works at CERN! More to the point, he could take visitors around… Not in the same capacity as the official tours, as he has to fit it around work, but all the same we leapt at the chance. Thomas was a great guide. We started off with lunch in the canteen (steak and beer!) before he took us to see the CMS Project, part of the enormous LHC ring. This thing is phenomenal, made up of parts weighing upwards of 800 tons each. These are all assembled and tested on the ground and then lowered through a tube into a chamber 100m down – the tube is barely 10cm wider than the parts themselves, so it’s precision work just getting the parts assembled underground. Our little trip was barely an hour, but definitely well worth the bus ride out (and Delphine almost missing her plane home). Just to feel the scale of the thing is something that can’t be achieved without standing right next to it. Well, as I said, Delphine flew back to Nice and I caught up with all this stuff while Daisy, my kind host, was out for the evening. The dogs kept me company as I watched us lose to Germany (on BBC1… in Switzerland!) and I finish typing this at 4am when I should be in bed! I think tomorrow will be a fairly short walk.